The Château in Spring: Les Hirondelles arrivent!!

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Photo: The potager at Château de Balleure

It’s spring in La Bourgogne, and around the château we are thrilled at the usual signs: the glowing gold forsythia, the fruit trees showing off their colorful spring party dresses, and the mélange of tulips in pure primary colors that the French adore. But one thing in particular says spring to me here: the return of les hirondelles, the barn swallows. One day there are none, and the next day we see them everywhere, flitting around with their little forked tails. You may know them well, but as these world travelers have yet to discover Charleston, they are a novelty to us here in France.

I wander down to the potager outside the drawbridge arch, where I find Pierre with rubber boots and work clothes and his ever present pipe, contemplating the planting of his vegetables. There will be potatoes, and rhubarb and herbs, and lots of tomatoes. Lavendar iris form a colorful frame around his blank, square canvas of terre.

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Pierre talks to me about the migration of the swallows. They leave their winter home in the tropics, he tells me, as far away as South Africa. They sometimes fly 200 miles a day, many dying from starvation or exhaustion.

When the swallows arrive, suddenly the air is filled with the music of their songs. They careen around the castle at full speed, all swirls and loops. They seem not to mind humans at all. One day, when we were in our salon with the windows wide open at both ends, they got a game going, or perhaps on the 4th floor we were just in their flight path. One swallow would come zooming in the window and across the room, leaving us ducking on the sofa. He (she? I doubt any female of the species would be so foolish) would then zip out the other window, following the round curve of the tower, then buzz us all over again. A friend joined him until they tired of the game.

And in the markets, the first signs of spring are those lovely bundles of asparagus, in two color choices: spring green or blossom white. Choose your color and enjoy this quick, light supper that will leave you time to linger in the garden, and be serenaded by the birds.

(P.S. Hot tip: a Parisian friend just emailed to say she’s renting out her 3 bdrm house in Les Lilas, Paris east, by week or month this August, 500 euros/week. Interested? Email her at dany.hericourt@free.fr.
AND did you catch Southern Fried French on thedailybasics.com last week? See the “Francophile Alert” post for May 13.
AND yummy reader recipes from Mary Flowers and Sue Mannings in last week’s comments!)

RECIPE: Roasted Asparagus Crostini with Fresh Herbs

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For 2:
1 small baguette; cut 4 thin slices at an angle
Olive oil
One bunch of asparagus
A handful of fresh herbs, finely chopped
4 eggs
Good quality parmesan, grated

Brush bread slices with olive oil, then sprinkle with sea salt and pepper and arrange on a small baking sheet.

Bend aparagus until they break and discard stems. In a baking dish, toss them with a tablespoon of olive oil, some sea salt, and pepper. Put asparagus and bread into oven, pre-heated to 375 degrees (put asparagus on the higher shelf). Cook until asparagus are just tender and bread is crispy, 8- 10 minutes (check both often, especially if the asparagus are thin). Remove both from oven and toss asparagus with a handful of fresh chopped herbs of your choice from the garden (parsley, chives, oregano, thyme…).

Meanwhile, poach the eggs by slipping them into simmering water from a cup, one at a time.

Put 2 toasts on each plate, top with asparagus and poached eggs (well-drained),and the parmesan. Set up a table in the garden. Don’t forget the vin blanc.

Next week: A story about some citified French swallows, and a lovely bird nest dessert. (You have subscribed, haven’t you? Don’t forget!)

7 thoughts on “The Château in Spring: Les Hirondelles arrivent!!”

  1. Dear Lyn , I have just signed up for your emails.
    I am enjoying them and envy you your lovely chateau in southern burgundy .The photos on your web site are very good and lovely colours. My husband and I stayed in Burgundy at Leslie Caron,s inn at Villeneuve sur yonne , totally charming. We have been on many visits to France, travelled north to south west to east . Our next visit is to Italy and Greece so I am learning Italian for that and enjoying it immensely . My husband however is still learning French from Michel Thomas and his cd,s
    A bientot , Carole Fitzgerald. From Australia

  2. Hi Lynn:
    I was wondering what those adorable birds were when we were in France in April. They were all over the auberge in Chenonceaux when we stayed there. Tell me, what are the large black bids with significant white markings and long tails? I keep forgetting to ask when I’m in france – they are quite large and are everywhere (at least, in the countryside).
    Love your blog,
    Melaina

  3. Idyllic and sensual. I can almost hear the wings of the swallows and taste the crumbs of Parmesan. You are a long way from the verandas of Charleston.

  4. Hi Lynn,
    I’m loving your blog more w/ each post. I’m inspired to try to dust off my French and learn some more… Didn’t we have Miss Kelley together in high school?
    Looking forward to next week’s news.
    Mary

  5. megbehle@me.com

    Lynn…wonderful blog! I’m really enjoying the stories since I know all of the locations and characters….and the yummy recipes are a real bonus as well! Look forward to tasting some in person this summer! Meg

  6. I love the swallows here in San Rafael: they build nests under the houses along the inlet. There is nothing more beautiful than watching them just before dusk, swooping over the water and vying to perch on our mooring post, which can only take one.
    One thing I really don’t understand – I learnt in school about their enormous, figure-of-eight migration from Europe to Africa, but where do the American swallows go – South America?
    Now have you on RSS! I miss my French fix.

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