As you know, we live in an apartment on the 4th floor of the château. Being a medieval castle, there is of course no elevator, and only one staircase, a circular stone one in a tower. It is accessible to each floor and the four of use it, plus assorted guests–there are always a few at Balleure. I can tell you that if you lived here (and had a propensity to leave things at the wrong end of the tower, as I do) you would have beautiful strong legs and your arms would be in shape too, from carrying the groceries up and up.
We like the 58 steps (most days), it keeps us in good form. But our main problem was our cat Piccolo. The adored Piccolo accompanied us from the states, so she, too, has made a dramatic life change. She’s used to sashaying in and out as she pleases, and we had no clue how to manage this, with one common staircase and a door at the bottom, left open or shut depending on the weather.
To introduce you: Piccolo is a Southern Lady, girly and prissy. She lost her svelte figure early on. She’s not one for bravery; a mouse would send her packing. I once watched her get into an impressively intense crouching position, tail flipping, when she spotted a bird a few yards away in the grass; but then she suddenly keeled over, exhausted by the effort, and fell sound asleep. She did once catch up with a large caterpillar, which she gingerly poked with great trepidation. This is the extent of her hunting repertoire.
It seemed unlikely that we could raise and lower the full-figured Piccolo down 4 stories in a basket, the only solution we could think of. But in the end, it all worked out, as Pic took immediately to the château. We often leave our entry door open, so she can zip up and down the tower as she pleases, exploring the summer kitchen en bas, perhaps exchanging a greeting with Pierre in passing. Outside she didn’t know what to make of the cows or the open fields, so unlike her Charleston walled garden. And so she is happy to stay inside.
Anyway, several daily trips up and down those stairs on a summer day make one thirsty, which has made me think about my favorite drink, Southern Iced Tea. We call it Sweet Tea in the South (we drink it loaded with sugar). The Brits will make a terrible face if you even mention it, and the French are skeptical, though coming around; you can buy it in cans here now (in cans! Quelle horreur!). But why would you buy yucky canned ice tea when it is SO easy to make! You don’t even have to turn the stove on. So, for the unschooled, here is a primer on making PROPER Southern Sweet Tea. I’ve also included some fun variations, including my own French version. Messing with the recipe would be a felony in Charleston, but here we will allow it.
RECIPE: Traditional Sweet Tea
No need to measure, but to give you an idea, for a ½ gallon pitcher:
About 5 cups boiling water
2 family-size tea bags (you can buy tea bags for iced tea, but any regular old tea will work—nothing fancy, please)
1/3 to 3/4 cup sugar, or more to taste (MUCH more is not uncommon!)
about 4 cups water (room temperature)
Ice cubes
Mint or lemon to garnish
Pour boiling water over the tea bags in a large pitcher. Set aside and let steep 5 to 10 minutes, covered, until very dark in color. Smush tea bags just a bit with the back of a spoon, then remove.
Add sugar to warm tea, stirring until sugar is COMPLETELY dissolved. This may take a minute or so. Add the other 4 cups of water, or enough to make it the proper deep amber color, and stir again. Serve over ice with a slice of lemon, or with fresh mint, muddled a bit with a spoon.
Avoiding Cloudy Tea: Cloudy tea tastes OK, but clear tea is prettier. If your water is hard, use bottled water. When adding water, use lukewarm, not cold. Store tea at room temperature, then pour it over ice to serve.
SOLAR TEA
The lazy summer method. Just put a couple of family-size tea bags in a glass pitcher and cover. Leave it sitting in full sun for a few hours, until desired color is reached. Sweeten with sugar syrup (see below).
YANKEE TEA
Ron is from up north, and though I’ve trained him to like iced tea, he won’t drink it sweet. Here’s the solution if you’ve got a mixed marriage (southern & Yankee) as we do: Make a pitcher of unsweetened tea, but keep a little container of sugar syrup in your fridge to add a bit as desired (regular sugar won’t dissolve in iced tea). To make the syrup, add equal parts sugar and water to a pan Heat it and stir until completely dissolved. Boiling it a bit will make it more concentrated. Keeps a month.
A note on ordering tea in the South: Many restaurants have gotten real progressive, catering to all those visitors from Off, and the waitress will ask you if you want your tea sweetened or unsweetened. If you are not a native, you will want to reply ‘half & half’. This will assure that you don’t get more sugar than tea, but iced tea with NO sugar is just hot tea, chilled.
FLUFFED-UP TEAS:
French Iced Tea
In honor of our adopted country, I offer this summer aperitif recipe, made with raspberries from Pierre’s garden.
Fill tall glasses with ice and add 1 Tablespoon of raspberry liqueur or Cassis to each. Put several fresh raspberries in each glass. Pour lightly sweetened iced tea over ice and garnish with lime slices.
Fresh Fruit Tea
Add a generous splash of fruit juice to lightly sweetened tea: pineapple, orange, cranberry, limeade, or a combination. Or, stir a bit of frozen juice concentrate into your tea. Garnish with fresh fruit.
Posh tea
Purée some fresh fruit and add to Sweet Tea: strawberries, mangos or raspberries, for example, but fresh peaches are the best. A little fruit juice or fruit liqueur thrown in would kick it up a notch. Garnish with colorful slices of fruit and rounds of lemon or lime. A straw would not be out of place here, and we may even be getting into umbrella territory.
Come on y’all: how do you drink your Sweet Tea? Are you a purist, or have you got some new ideas for us?
In the Comments: LOTS of wonderful ideas and reflections this past week on learning French–Je vous remercie beaucoup. Plus a couple of good stories about those inevitable language faux pas.


12 thoughts on “58 Steps, 1 Fat Expat Cat”
Bon Jour! 58 steps?? Good for you! When I was young we lived in an apt. bldg. on the third floor. It was good exercise. Now, though, I don’t think I’d be too thrilled to walk it. Your cat is cute and your tea looks delicious, by the way! And I cannot believe the beauty of the chateau in which you live. What a beautiful picture, I can’t even imagine living there.
Best regards,
Gloria
Your magazine background shines through in your food pictures. They are gorgeous! I live in Tennessee; but I don’t even LIKE iced tea (gasp … heresy!). Yet, that picture makes it look delectable. Almost makes me want to try it …
Lynn, we think it is a travesty that anyone would drink bottled sweet tea. We like ours with sugar syrup and lemon — miam-miam!
J’adore le chat Piccolo! What a dilemma: litter box or in/out arrangement. I guess it was out of the question to install a pet door at le château — hah!
Loved your magazine article.
À bientôt,
Genie
I may be one of the few southerners who don’t like “sweet” tea, but I have found that I like it with just a tad of stevia, instead of sugar.
What in the world is a “family-sized tea bag”? Is it different from a normal-sized tea bag+
All the fresh fruit teas, with or without liqueur, sound wonderful! I usually take my tea sweetened
lo-cal with lemon. To be able to enjoy it in a French chateau would be a dream…
I adore Piccolo ! Isn’t it amazing to see how adaptable cats can be ?!
I am originally from NC , now living in the mountains of MD.
But my husband and myself love sweet tea…or 1/2 sweet and 1/2 unsweetened. with lemon.
Drinking tea in a chateau has to be divine…
Sarah
My favorite ice tea is half sweet tea and half lemonade. Isn’t that called an Arnold Palmer?? I was raised on sweet ice tea and continue to love it! Thanks for the pleasure of reading your blog.
Sue Bingeman, Decatur High School class of ’68!
Southern sweet tea is hands down my favorite drink! Add vodka and you have a proper tailgate party. But green or black tea- none of the fruity flavor stuff for me please.
Hi Lynn!
We lived in New Jersey for a few years, and I went through cultural shock to discover that they did not serve iced tea in the winter…at that time, it was considered a summer drink in NJ! I would have to order a pot of hot tea and a class of ice at the restaurants and make my own iced tea at the table! Southern women have to have their iced tea, no matter where we live!! 🙂
Another funny story…I was at a seafood restaurant one day in NJ, and I heard one of the ladies behind me ask “What is this?” Her friend answered, “It’s something new…it’s called a hush puppy!” I almost choked on my food…it never occured to me that hush puppies were only eaten in the South! LOL! You’ll have to introduce the French to hush puppies while you are living there!!
Hugs to Piccolo!! She sounds like a purr-fect Southern lady!
Carol Hjort
On my first trip to Maine, we were in a seafood restaurant, and my cousin couldn’t believe that I wanted hush puppies. The only hush puppies he knew about were shoes. LOL.
I just love sweet tea, thanks for featuring different teas, I’m a tea lover myself, ‘glad to have found this blog.