Last Summer Fling at the Bistros

This fine French summer is about to become a sweet memory, as La rentrée has arrived. Since all of Europe seems to take their vacation at the same time, La rentrée is a very big deal. It’s the date when kids go back to school, tout le monde goes back to work, and real life returns to reclaim the life of leisure. The weather doesn’t know it yet, though; it’s warm and glorious, the roses blush and flush, and the terraces of the cafés and brasseries are still in full summer swing. A friend visiting Europe for the first time remarked to me, “People sure sit around and drink a lot here, don’t they?” Why yes they do, and there’s nothing better than hanging out for lunch, or an afternoon, in the shade of a parasol at a bistro.

And in summer, the thing to order here is a main dish salad. They are the preferred French bistro lunch, and they’re huge and colorful and wonderful. I’m not ready to part with them just yet.

Here are some popular salads you might encounter at a French bistro: Salade Exotique (shrimp, avocado, pineapple, endive), Salade de Gésiers (sautéed duck gizzards, very yummy), Cruidités (a plate of veggies like shredded carrots, tomatoes, boiled eggs, potatoes, beets), Salade Fruits de Mer (smoked salmon, shrimp, mussels, veggies), or Salade Gourmande (‘greedy’ salad: bacon, foie gras, sliced duck breast).

To make any of these French salads, just do this: Take a very large plate, maybe a charger. Mound it with a generous quantity of good quality greens. Roquette (arugula) is often mixed in, for a peppery punch. Then arrange your favorite French ingredients on top, garnish with something pretty in the middle, and drizzle with vinaigrette. Et voila! A lovely lunch that is irresistible. And maybe healthy, maybe not (SEE Salade Gourmande).

We had lunch one day this summer on the terrace of our English friends Pete and Dee, and Dee served up a smorgasbord of salads, family style, mostly with produce from their large potager. This is the way we love to eat in summer, and she has a passel of easy salads in her repertoire. Here are three of the recipes the Salad Queen made for that lovely meal, as fresh and tasty as the last days of summer.

RECIPES: Dee’s Summer Salads

White Bean and Haricot Vert Salad with Tomatoes: Steam green beans until tender crisp, then plunge into ice water to cool and retain color; drain well. Put beans in large bowl and add a can of white beans, drained. Add some chopped and seeded tomatoes, and some cooked corn (canned, frozen, or cut off the cob if you’re ambitious). Toss with French dressing #1 (see blog, June 17) to which you have added some crushed garlic, and plenty of chopped fresh basil, or your favorite fresh herbs.

Tossed melon salad with Creamy Herb Dressing: Mix fresh, mild lettuces like butter and bibb lettuce in a bowl. Add lots cantaloupe, cut into bite-sized chunks. For the dressing, mix well equal parts of French Dressing #1 and plain yogurt, plus a handful of chopped mint, parsley, and a touch of fresh tarragon.

Beet, Apple, and Walnut Salad: Arrange lettuce on a platter. In center put a mound of cooked beets, cut small, surrounded by sliced apples tossed with lemon juice. Sprinkle toasted walnuts over all and drizzle with walnut oil and raspberry vinegar.

In the Comments this past week: Some new tomato recipes from Trevor and Genie, and a one-star chef makes an amuse bouche. More flea market stories, and many thanks to Karen for a new source on where to find the brocantes! And back on the “Pardon my French’ blog Comments section, Susan has her own fish story to tell. Merci à tous!