A Bit of Parisian Theater: The Vanves Market

Do you travel to Paris? Are you a woman, who maybe likes to shop? Then you probably want to know all about the antique markets in Paris for your next trip. Guys, you unenlightened ones who don’t know the joys of a beautiful, well-used object, do not stop reading here. There’s something for everybody at the Paris flea markets.

We’ve talked about the Marchés des Puces in the countryside, but today we’ll kick it up a notch and learn about Vanves, a unique flea market in Paris. This is not The Big One in Paris, at Clignancourt (more about that another day), but a smaller, more manageable and personal market, which you can knock out in a morning. It’s outdoors, bright and festive under colorful umbrellas. This is said to be where the Paris dealers come for a bargain, though at least some of the prices may still leave you wide-eyed.

At Vanves you’ll find a few fine antiques, but mostly brocante: old and antique accessories, linens, jewelry, tools, etc., offered up by professional brocanteurs. Most importantly, lots of things that can be tucked into a suitcase.

Even if you’re a non-shopper, you’re bound to find this little bite of Parisian life irresistible, as I did when I was there last month. The collections are quirky, the brocanteurs are colorful characters, and the negotiations are fierce. Where else can you find a collector who offers only old watch faces? The definitive collection of plastic dolls? Hand-embroidered linens that are works of art, for a song? It’s all here, and it’s strange and wonderful.

If you go, early is better, for hunters with serious intentions. There’s a nice café and pâtisserie around the corner, but it’s not the best area for a good lunch. There’s also a buvette at the market, selling drinks and goodies like warm crêpes (sprinkled with lemon and sugar and rolled in paper, to go).

Porte de Vanves Market
Avenue Georges Lafenestre & Avenue Marc Sangnier, 75014 Paris
Saturday and Sunday, all year, opens at 7 am and most vendors start packing up after lunch. Metro Porte de Vanves, line 13. Check the bus schedule as well, it drops you right at the market.

RECIPE: French Crêpes à emporter

The French don’t eat on the go, but here’s an exception: At the buvettes of many flea markets and fêtes in France you can find crêpes, dressed for travel. They are served hot, topped with lemon juice and sugar, then folded up and wrapped in parchment paper. Why not make up a batch, and serve them as a fun snack or dessert—you can make the batter ahead, or even re-heat crêpes after freezing.

Use your favorite sweet crêpes recipe, or try this one, from a 1997 issue of Cook’s Illustrated:

For this you use a food processor, but to make the batter by hand, sift the flour and salt together in a medium mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, combine the milk, eggs, water, and melted butter and whisk them gradually into the flour. Pass the batter through a fine strainer or sieve. It takes a few crêpes to get the heat of the pan right; your first two or three will almost inevitably be unusable. Makes sixteen to twenty 6- to 7-inch crepes or twelve to sixteen 9- to 10-inch crepes.

2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
6 tablespoons water
1 cup bleached all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons unsalted butter , melted, plus extra for brushing pan

For topping:
lemon juice and granulated sugar

Mix all ingredients (except extra melted butter and topping) in food processor or blender (or by hand as noted above) until smooth batter is formed, 3 to 4 seconds. Transfer batter to covered container; refrigerate at least 2 hours or, if desired, up to 2 days.

Gently stir batter if ingredients have separated. Heat 6- to 7-inch crepe pan or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Brush pan bottom and sides very lightly with butter, which should sizzle when it hits pan. When butter stops sizzling, pour 2 1/2 tablespoons (use 1/4-cup measure just over half full) batter into pan, following illustrations below. Cook until mottled brown on bottom, loosening crepe from pan side with table knife or metal icing spatula to check doneness, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Flip loosened crêpes quickly with fingertips or spatula; cook until spotty brown on other side, about 30 seconds longer.

Place cooked crêpe on plate and repeat cooking process with remaining batter, brushing pan as necessary, every two to three crêpes. For 9- to 10-inch skillet, follow same cooking process using full 1/4 cup of batter for each crepe. (crêpes can be double-wrapped in plastic and refrigerated up to 3 days or frozen up to 2 month).

To give your crêpes the French touch, squeeze some lemon juice over each crêpe, spinkle with sugar, and fold in half twice to make a triangle. Wrap lower part of crêpe in parchment paper or a napkin and hand them out right away to those hopeful parties lingering by the stove. Or, serve on plates with fresh berries or jam and sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar.

In the comments this week: Lots of opinions on those wine rules! Cindy says, the drinking hour is ‘wine-thirty’. I’m in! Elaine likes the ceremony of opening the wine, me too. A welcome to Sarah, who’s dreaming of French travel, and Jim who’s done a full tour. Charmaine, there will be a blog soon about coffee rules, in France and in Italy! Beth checks in with another good lemon pasta recipe. And thanks to all, for the kind comments and for connecting with the blog.