Around the World with A Poke Chop Sandwich

Photo:  Scooter Cat on the streets of Spoleto, Italy, taken by my good friend Ali Herron

 When the weather turns cold here (at the moment we’re in the midst of a bout of snow), my thoughts turn to sunny Italy.  And also to comfort food.  So it is no surprise that today I find myself smiling over an Italian food memory, the Sploleto Pork Sandwiches.  It’s hard to imagine a better sandwich.

This memory page dates back many years, when we were visiting Rome with our friends Darlene and George.  We made a side trip to the little town of Spoleto in Umbria, site of a major annual arts festival called the Festival of Two Worlds.  That other world is Charleston, which has a sister festival called the Spoleto Festival, for 3 weeks each May.  Being from Charleston, our side trip was a pilgrimage of sorts.

It was fall, and this lovely old hilltop town was dead quiet.  But we happened to run into a dashing Italian who spoke good English and regaled us with tales of the two festivals.  Then, of course, we asked him about lunch.

“My dear Americans, you absolutely MUST go and have a Spoleto pork sandwich,” he said, gesturing with a flourish.  “It’s simply the best in the world!”  He directed us to a tiny square on the other side of town,  lined with park benches and pigeons.  To one side there was a dilapidated truck, open at the side.  Inside, Signore was fixing the simplest of sandwiches: sliced pork, slow roasted and warm, tucked  inside a small loaf of homemade bread.  They were unadorned except for the juices from the pork, and wrapped in parchment paper.  Alone in the square, we sat on the bench and wolfed them down, the juices dripping down our chins.  It was a lunch we’d never forget.

Contrast this food memory with one from the other side of the pond, but not so far away after all, a day spent with my late step-father.  He took me to to sample his idea of the world’s best sandwich, in Brunswick, Georgia:  The Poke Chop Sandwich at Willie’s Weenie Wagon.  We bought them at the take-out window and sat at a weathered picnic table with the blue collar crowd, savoring our sandwiches on white paper plates.  They were mighty fine.

 My version of the pork sandwich is plumped up with roasted red peppers, caramelized onions,  and gooey mozzarella, then it’s all heated up in the oven.  Can’t think of a better antidote to a snow day.

 Make these when you have some leftover sliced pork roast or pork tenderloin.  In a pinch you can just fry up some thin, boneless pork chops.

RECIPE:  Spoleto Pork Chop Sandwiches

• Cooked pork roast or tenderloin, thinly sliced
• a jar of roasted peppers
• a large yellow onion, thinly sliced
• olive oil
• Fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
• Baguette or Italian bread, split lengthwise

Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees (220C).  Drain peppers.  Sauté onions slowly in olive oil for 15-20 minutes.  Drizzle inside of sliced baguette with a little olive oil.  Fill baguette  with pork slices, peppers, onions, and cheese.  Wrap in foil and heat about 15 minutes.  Slice into quarters and serve, with lots of napkins.

And speaking of Italy, I've just finished reading a super memoir about a small Italian town near Rome. It's funny, full of colorful characters,  and captures the Italian spirit. Click on the link to get more info on Michael Rips' Pasquale's Nose: Idle Days in an Italian Town . 

Highlights from the Comments this week: There's a military man under the table at Carole's house, and Kathy's teaching her French students about "Brioche des Rois". Kerry's embarrassed at the boulangerie–too funny, and Frank, the 'guests under the table' comes later in the evening! Nicole, sorry we missed the party, but merci for making us our own personal galette.