Slummin’ on Cap Ferrat

Though we've come to the Cote d'Azur before, I’m always dazzled when we round the corner to the first of the big views.  Each time I forget how unearthly blue the water is, how colorful are the pastel buildings that sweep of coastline, how perfectly the snow covered alps in the distance frame the scene.

If the Cote d’Azur has a fatal flaw, that would be its popularity.  With wall to wall  development, no peace-loving traveler would venture here in July and August when the European masses descend.  The rest of the year it’s busy but not annoyingly so.  March is just on the cusp of the season. We've showed up unfashionably early, which suits us fine.   

There is one really quiet spot we know that has some breathing room, the tiny peninsula of Cap Ferrat.  But quiet on the Riviera comes with a big price tag.  After all, there's a bit a royalty, a slew of CEO's and a shah or two. We read once that the Cap has the most expensive real estate on the planet.  Instead of stacks of condos, there are villas, not with gardens but with grounds.  They are mostly hidden from the street by high hedges and imposing gates, and on the other side they face the sea, proudly perched on high cliffs that drop straight down to a rocky shore.  The villas are the colors of tropical flowers, peach and gold and rose, or baked terra cotta.  Others are as white as a wedding cake and just as ornamented.  From the road, one catches just a glimpse of the marble balustrade of a balcony cantilevered over the sea, or a teasing peek at a lush garden.  Photo:  Will this one do?  The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.

And yet, if you visit here, as I’m sure many of you have, you don't need to pack your Prada or your pretensions.  The money here is old, and discretion is the mot du jour. The tiny town of St. Jean on the Cap is simple and sublime, the restaurants are straightforward and not too pricey, and it’s possible to spend a perfectly reasonable vacation here.  Or, of course, an exclusive luxious one.

I love all the contrasts in France, so I was delighted to find the modest working boats of the local fisherman parked alongside the shiny yachts in the lovely, half-moon of a harbor in St. Jean.  I wandered down to the makeshift fish stall that pops up a couple of days each week, in search of something for dinner.  Les pêcheurs were busy pulling out the hundreds of tiny, silvery girelles that were caught in their nets.  These will be deep fried and served as frittures.  They are eaten whole, the bones and head just adding to the crunch.  There was also a frightening looking creature called a lotte, with a wide head, bulging eyes and serious teeth.  He was still alive and gasping for air, pauvre bête.  Then there was un poulpe, a whole octopus, looking rather gray and slimy.

Uninspired to make a seafood dinner after making eye contact with that monkfish, I went back and made instead one of my very favorite vegetable dishes, which is a Nice specialty, though I suspect they borrowed it from the Italians.  This dish I can only describe as rapturous, with a fresh taste of early spring. 

RECIPE:  Artichauts Cru Niçois (Niçois Raw Artichoke Salad)

Who knew you could eat artichokes raw?  It’s essential to use the best, freshest ingredients for this dish, and it's better to use baby artichokes, which are more tender, though you can use the large ones. I’ve seen the little ones in the states at gourmet food markets.  Here they come 5 or 6 to the bunch, with long stems.  The globes are about the size of a lemon, and are purpley green. One bunch will make a small side salad for two.  

Cut the globes from the woody stems.  Remove the outer leaves, just the ones that are easy to pull off, leaving the tighter inner leaves.  Remove the soft, fibrous core at the bottom, by making a cone-shaped cut with your paring knife. Next cut off half an inch of the remaining leaves at the top.  Cut it in half and you’re ready to slice, lenthwise (see photo, and note below).  Slice as thin as you can; the leaves will separate as you slice. If you’re making a large quantity, put them in a lemon-water bath to hold them as you prepare them, they turn brown quickly. 

(By the way, the best way to slice these is to use a Mandoline.  I bought a plastic one for $20  that was recommended by Gourmet and it works like a charm for all sorts of things. It's makes a great potato gratin for example. Click on the  blue link if you want more info).

Put chopped artichokes into a bowl, and squeeze a lemon over all.  Just before serving add a couple of tablespoons of good olive oil, then toss it all with about 1/3 cup of freshly grated parmesan, sea salt and pepper.  Divine! 

If you go to Cap Ferrat:  A reasonable (in the off-season) and beautifully situated hotel is the Brise Marine.  If you’re looking for a luxury vacation, you can certainly find it here, at the Royal Riviera or the super deluxe Grand Hotel. For holiday rentals, my American friend Shelly has 5 beautifully decorated places, from cozy flat to romantic villa, at http://rivieraexperience.com/. Whatever  you do, don’t miss les Sentiers du Littoral, a series of walks around the cliffs of the Cap (photo)  and surrounding coastal areas that are surely some of the most dramatically beautiful walks in the world.  And all for free! 

Favorite Reads, and a special film:   To really experience the glamour of the Cap, watch the classic film To Catch a Thief with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly, filmed in the area and at the Villa Rothschild.   And if you enjoyed Carol Drinkwater's memoir of her Olive Farm, you might also like The Olive Route, the story of her personal journey around the Mediterranean basin.  Just click on the blue links.

Highlights from the comments this past week:  Mark says, poetically, that the subject of last week's blog on where to live in France "…gives shapes to our dreams."  I love that.  Our Dear Readers have some great ideas of their own on pursuing their dream, and I there are some good travel ideas too. Like Rueil Malmaison, suggested by Barbara. Sarah, Angers is on my travel list.  Maureen suggests Colmar, which is one of the most flowery and charming villages I know.  Marlane, I love Narbonne too, and Perpignan.  Carol, Julie, and Jackie like the beauty of northern Burgundy.  Beth and Alicia mention towns that are a stone's throw from the subject of today's post!  Mille mercis for all the fun comments.

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2010 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved.