We left our turret at the château last week to head for another tower: that famous one in Paris. La Tour Eiffel was built in 1889 to withering reviews, and here I am 122 years years later, buying an Eiffel Tower cookie cutter as a souvenir. Amazing, the enduring mystique of this strange structure.
In Paris we always stay near the Trocadèro, the classic high viewing point for the tower at the top of the Champ de Mars. There are many ways to view the tower, and my favorite is to circumvent the teeming masses gathered directly under it and stroll around to the east side, where there is a wide sandy path and a shady little park, lined with ornate mansions on the other side. It’s quiet here, and the tower looms through a leafy frame, with only a meandering pond tucked between its massive base and the path. It’s also fun to see the La Dame de Fer, or the Iron Lady as the French call her, from the water, now that there is the riverboat shuttle service called Batobus. One ticket buys you a leisurely tour of Paris, with eight stops. You can get off and on at all the main attractions along the Seine. Along with the city buses, it’s my favorite transportation alternative to the efficient but airless Metro.
Do you know your Eiffel Tower trivia? It was designed by Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 World’s Fair, at a time when exposed ironwork was an unheard of architectural element. Three hundred 
illustrious Frenchmen of the day signed a petition against the ‘useless and monstrous’ tower. It survived but was nearly torn down again in 1909.
For 41 years the Tower was the tallest man-made structure in the world. It is 81 stories tall, or 324 meters (1063 feet). Should you care to skip the elevator and walk up, there are 1652 steps. Parachuters have jumped from it, mountaineers have scaled it, bungee jumpers have illegally dived from it, a guy flew a plane through the arches, and someone once rode from the first level down on a bicycle. It is said to be the most visited monument on the planet.
My favorite thing: to celebrate the millennium In 1999, the tower was turned into a giant sparkler with the addition of 20,000 flashing light bulbs. It was so popular that the lights were retained, and at nightfall it twinkles briefly on the hour.
So I thought la belle tour at least deserved a memorial cookie, in this case a French sable, which is simply a classic butter cookie. Tune in next week for Paris trend-spotting, a restaurant report, and a recipe from a famous Paris chef.
Hope this post takes you to–or back to–Paris in your dreams. Bon voyage! 
Photo: Les Tours Eiffel dressed in pink, why not? For info on Eiffel Tower cookie cutters, and Fleurs De Lis too, click on the links.
Favorite Reads & Films: Ah, Paris! Want to keep the mood going? Try these flicks: Paris, Je T'Aime (Paris, I Love You)
In the Comments this week: Page checks in from Birmingham, the spiritual home of fried green tomatoes. Welcome Genie and Kat, fellow Furman folks. Genie I want to try those uptown green tomatoes, and Kat, good luck with the shrimp and grits! Maureen, have never made green tomato chutney but I must try it. Carol, fried green tomatoes in NY, who knew? And Cynthia says her tomatoes may never see red. Recipe alert: Carol H sends another rum cake recipe, and Anne and Rachel are thinking limencello, brilliant! Suzanne, I think most any rum will do, I used the cheap stuff. LOVED reading all the great comments!
Our reader's blogs: Unexcused Absenses is about a couple who are taking an extended break, crusing on the French canals.
Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride. All Rights Reserved.
12 thoughts on “From Turret to Tower: Paris ‘en haut’”
Lynn, thanks for the reminder that I have an Eiffel Tower cookie cutter packed away. Think I’ll work on a savory recipe so I can serve the towers as “wine snacks”. Also, a special thanks to the reader who recommended the books on rose wine by Jamie Ivey. Steve and I read them during our vacation and went chateau-hopping based on the author’s recommendations. Now back in Germany with several cases of pink wine to show for our efforts. What fun!
There is just something about the tower it is always one of the highlights of a visit to Paris. Being there in person always amazes me I never thought from seeing photos that it would have this effect on me. This past April was the first time I ever went to the top and I chose to do that at night to see the city of lights all lit up breathtaking views even though it was raining. this year was also the first time I’d seen it twinkle on the hour, I had to stay and see that twice.
I’m a major ET fan also so I loved your “copy.” Best Paris book I’ve read recently (maybe EVER?): David McCullough’s “The Greater Journey, Americans in Paris.” American artists, doctors, musicians, sculptors who went to Paris between 1830 and 1900 to improve their talents and bring the knowledge back to the US. Charlie Rose interviewed McCullough about the book on PBS, which has been re-broadcasted a few times since publication. Lots of insights there for McCullough fans.
one more comment on green tomatoes. My grandmother always made what she called Green tomato ketchup; I’m guessing it’s the same as the chutney you mentioned. I buy the most delicious green tomato piccalilli from a local farmer, which is just like what my grandma made. Besides les tomates, it has vinegar, sugar, read and green peppers, onions, salt, mustard and celery seeds, allspice and cinnamon. This year she’s added some jalapenos for a hot piccalilli.
A bungee jumper would have to spring far, far way from the launch pad or collide with the flare of the Tour, no? On the other hand, would a bungee jumper care?
Who else wonders, as I do, about the urge that rises when lots of people gather and make a city to build a tall monument?
Oh my gosh, how beautiful! One day I will see it in person. Those cookies look so yummy!
Have a fantastic weekend!
XXX Ido
Did you know, about the Tower, that Eiffel built himself an apartment at the top? It was quite large, and lots of dignitaries visited (before AND after his jail term for the Panama Canal scandal!) I’ve always wonderedif it’s open to the public, but I assume it is used for weather/satellite…or maybe secret spy stuff!
Another interesting factoid: no one expected that women would be interested to climb up into the Tower, but they were! So much so that coutourieres designed a special dress for the occasion, which, among other things had a triple collar that one could pull up as the altitude and wind increased!
And finally: a rave review for Woody Allen’s new movie “Midnight in Paris”…what a trip, run do not walk to see it! My houseguest described it as “the perfect movie”, and I think she is right on the money. Loved it, and think Adrien Brody should win an Oscar for his portrayal of Salvador Dali.
PS: Does anyone beside me have trouble figuring out how to get to the comments? I love to read them, but I think it would be great to have a button to click and get to them…or am I missing something? I am pretty stupid when it comes to the computer. I’m just saying…
I second “Midnight in Paris” – formidable! (…pour les ecrivains aussi)
Linda, I can find the comments when I look at the site by just clicking on the link that says ‘comments’ at the very bottom of the post; the number of comments will be in parentheses. They should open right up. If they don’t, will you please let me know so I can look into it? Merci!
A little late reading this because I’m in Paris, ending my third and last week, and have been busy doing other things, like looking at the Tour Eiffel. Loved ” Midnight in Paris” – it was the perfect movie to see before we left for my favorite city and we’ve had fun visiting the movie sites while here.
I have a very special place in my heart for the Tour Eiffel, having had the most delightful opportunity of celebrating my 50th birthday there with a couple bottles of Perrier Jouet Champagne and some very special friends. That night in September was as sparkling as the Champagne. Thanks for the reminder. I also loved “Midnight in Paris” Your site is most enjoyable for this francophiile.
What a wonderful way to commemorate this journey with a French sable—a classic butter cookie.