PHOTO: We're all longing for chocolate this week.
Who would think that a simple chocolate cake could reveal the many layered differences between the Anglo vs the French way of eating?
What comes to mind when you think of chocolate cake? Well, for the Americans, if you’re like me you picture an enormous slice of devil’s food cake, two or three layers, with lots of gooey chocolate frosting, between layers and all around. Of course with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side. Over-the-top Yum.
Here in France, the most typical chocolate cake would be a slender slice of moelleux au chocolat (moelleux, meaning moist or tender, is a completely unpronounceable word, requiring complex contortions of the lips. Try mwa leu). This is a one layer affair, rich yet light and airy, made with high quality chocolate and served with just a dusting of icing sugar on top, a small dollop of whipped cream on the side, and a berry or two as a garni. Understated. Simply sublime. (Then there is moelleux au chocolat au coeur fondant, round with a warm center, but that’s a recipe for another day).
I never met a chocolate cake I didn’t like, and I love the American version. Yet, when I encountered a moelleux done really well, it was un coup de foudre–love at first bite. This happened when a friend of Nicole’s brought one to a potluck, and I was over the moon. When I asked her for the recipe, she looked at me, puzzled. “Why it’s just a simple moelleux au chocolat,” she said, as if everyone could whip one up in their sleep.
Photo: Let them eat chocolate cake– all gussied up at a Paris pâtisserie.
By the way, Olivier Magny of O Château notes that in Paris, a restaurant with no moelleux on the menu is considered avant-garde. And there's more: “If a Parisian woman opts for a moelleux, sexual misery will ensue. Parisian women are not known to indulge twice the same night.”
So the other day, when the chef at our tiny local bistro served one that was hands down the best I’d ever had, I wasn’t going to let that recipe get away a second time, even if it interfered with my sex life. I was nearly on my knees and at his mercy. Before the meal was over, a photocopy of the recipe arrived at our table, signed ‘with love from the St. Martin Cafe team’.
The recipe was titled “Moelleux au chocolat de Catherine”. I haven’t discovered the identity of the mysterious Catherine, but that woman sure can cook.
Here it is, and as a bonus it’s simple and fast. And with no frosting, I think we can easily call it diet food.
RECIPE: Moelleux au chocolat de Catherine 
serves 10 French people
pre-heat oven: 375F (180C). Butter a 9" (22 or 24 cm) cake pan.
- 7 oz (200 grams) of semi-sweet dessert (baking) chocolate (70%)
- 7 oz (200 gram)s of unsalted butter
- 3 Tablespoons rum, or your favorite spirit
- 1 cup (200 grams) of sugar
- 5 eggs
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon flour (70 grams)
- Whipped cream, and/or vanilla ice cream
- berries to garnish
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, set aside
Melt the butter and chocolate in a bain-marie (double boiler) with the rum, over barely simmering water. Cool slightly. Meanwhile, with a mixer beat the egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture lightens.
Mix the flour into the egg mixture, then the chocolate.
Whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold it delicately into the chocolate mixture until combined. Turn into the pan (pan will be quite full) and cook 25 minutes. Check doneness by inserting a sharp knife in the center. The point of the knife should remain moist at the point.
Cool, cut into slices and dust with contectioner’s sugar. Serve with a bit of whipped cream and berries, and ice cream if you’re feeling sinful.
If you can't pick just one–better whip up an old fashioned American chocolate cake too. There's a great recipe over at the fun blog, www.foodess.com.
Favorite Reads: In my cookbook library, I have some old favorites for cakes. In the The Cake Bible
Thanks for the many nice Comments this week. And if you missed it, go back a week for Linda's Tour Eiffel trivia additions. And EVERYONE is recommending Midnight in Paris, so I've got to go see it, even though I think Woody Allen is creepy.
Our reader's blogs: Speaking of perfect summer desserts, try Melanie's Texas Hill Country Peach Pie this week at www.bravethekitchen.com.
Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride. All Rights Reserved.
26 thoughts on “The Gâteau au Chocolat of the Mysterious Catherine”
Thank you for this yummy recipe. I am going to try it. Two restaurants near me serve a wonderful multi-layered chocolate cake. The big difference is the HUGE oversize portion. Literally, it can feed 3 or more people. That is why we are so overweight!!!
And why can’t we have as many wonderful pastry shops here.
Almost exactly the same gateau recipe that my French sister-in-law gave me! It has been approved by my French neighbor here in Umbria, and she is one of the best cooks I have ever met (well, she’s from Lyon!).
Cake sounds wonderful. I, too, think Woody Allen is creepy, however the rests of the cast is super. I probvably have not been to a movie in a year until I went to ‘Midnight in Paris”.
I am a reader of yours thanks to Kristin.
Oh…I HAVE to make this cake since Catherine is my name! Yum.
I agree, Woody Allen is creepy but I have enjoyed his movies since I was a young chick and his quirky sense of humor suits me just fine. Wasn’t “Sleeper” made by him? It features a futuristic house that still stands in the foothills outside Denver to this day. I always look for it on my drives to the big city.
I am longing to see that movie, “Midnight in Paris,” too. I guess I will have to drive the 40 minutes to town to see it. I have not gone to a movie theater for more than 5 years, I think. Hope it’s worth the effort! (says the hermit)
My son always opted out of icing for ‘his’ cakes. So we have gotten into the habit of eating our cakes without. The Moelleux au chocolat de Catherine sounds absolutely yummy. This will be my desert for our girls morning next month. Thank you for sharing with us.
“Serves 10 French people”…or four Americans…sigh.
Writer Michael Pollan describes a study in which American and French women were asked to say the first word that came into their minds when they heard “chocolate cake.” The Americans said “guilt.” The French said “celebration.”
Says a lot, doesn’t it?
Let us all celebrate (with) cake!
Woody Allen is indeed creepy, as are some of the persistent themes in his movies, but Midnight in Paris is frothy by his standards. There’s one character of spectacular venality, female of course, who embodies his conflicted misogyny. But otherwise, a good movie.
Anything to do with chocolate and a Catherine, or a Katherine. . . is awesome 🙂 yum!
Thanks Lynn for another fabulous recipe. My French friend in Orleans makes a similar wonderful gateaux au chocolat for us when we visit that is divine. The photos of all of the beautiful patisseries and their delicate, exquisite offerings are lovely. Wishing we were there toute suite!
Definately will try this cake for my bridge club next month. Although Woody Allen is wierd, “Midnight in Paris” is worth seeing. We recently had fun in Paris visiting the sites from the movie.
Lynn, you are just wonderful! I have baked this cake already. It is pure chocolate bliss….and so simple to make. It does not need icing. The flavor is so delicious it stands alone.
Thanks for the movie recommendation. Believe it or not I watch “Ratatoulie” about once a month. I have never purchased an animated film,,but this one makes me feel like I am visiting France. My son tells me that is “The Disney Effect”.
I purchased books from Amazon through the link on your website.
Hope it helps. Sarah
Thanks for sharing this recipe, it sounds delicious and authentic, that’s for sure! I copied it to try and I hope to make it soon.
Best,
Gloria
My belle-mere made a devil’s food cake like no other. It had a cooked caramel butter fudge icing. When we moved to Baton Rouge, I found recipes in the paper for a Maringouin Cake. Same cake as my mother-in-law’s. Maringouin is a small town in Point Coupee parish in the top of the cajun triangle.
Anne Daigle
Thanks for this. I’ll add it to my chocolate cake collection. I tested a chocolate pound cake recipe for a national food magazine the other day and it was boring. Not nearly chocolate-y enough. My husband didn’t like it either, so I threw it out. You know that means it did not have enough redeeming qualities to waste the calories on. All the better that we saved them in anticipation.
Leslie, I just love this, so true! This one may show up in the blog one day. Thanks for sending it.
Thanks to all for the fun comments, and the cake seems a hit–with my family too. Sarah, thanks for the Amazon support, and yes I liked Ratatouille too!
Oh la la, this sounds great. I have a “vanilla” version of this that I love… got it from a French amie, of course. I make it in a square pan and cut it like brownies. For a more “summery” version I think I’ll try this one with limoncello instead of rum… Mmmm!!!
I THINK I MUST DEFEND WOODY ALLEN. The man is simply a genius and to call him “creepy” ignores that fact. (Look up “creepy” in a thesaurus!) Disgusting comments. I would expect Francophiles (and readers of this blog) to be a bit more accepting & intelligent.
Hi Katherine,
Woody Allen did some interesting movies (though I prefer the ones from his younger years). I wasn’t really referring to his art, though, but to his personal life. A man who marries his teen-age step-daughter has some problems, in my book. However, I seem to be in the minority, I think most people would be in your camp. Thanks for the comment.
Wish I had the right cooking utensils for baking at my apartment rental this month. I’d whip it up in an instant. I’ll save it for home, though. And, yes, Midnight in Paris was the first Woody Allen film I’ve enjoyed in awhile. Takes me back to the wit and intelligence of Annie Hall.
I’m going to give the moilleux au chocolat recipe to 2 friends who make dessert(I don’t)and hope they make it to share with me.
Lynn, this is a beautifully written piece. Now on to the subject at hand – chocolate: The first time I had Fondant au Chocolat (in the Dordogne), I thought I had died and gone to heaven. I can’t wait to try this recipe. You have a great blog!
Harriet
This looks divine, although I’m pretty partial to the layers and frosting version also. But then, that explains the size of my hips! I shall try this one soon. Thanks for sharing.
Gorgeous cake. My 7-year old nephew helped me bake it and it was as moist and satisfying as you indicated. Wonderful with fresh blueberries on top.
No Icing on this cake? We must have icing…So when daughter Peggy comes for Thanksgiving.. how about if she can bake it and we’ll cut it in squares and dip it in chocolate in my new fondue pot…Is that sinful?
Mickey