Photo: Berzé-le-Châtel, between Mâcon and Cluny
There are certain words in any language that have so many levels of meaning that they simply don’t translate well, and le patrimoine is one of them. On the surfacre it means heritage or legacy. It is a much-used word in France, and refers to ‘frenchness’, to the deep, nostalgic ties the French have to their history that are imbedded in the French character, with shades of patriotism, nationalism, and ancestry. It’s often difficult for foreigners to imagine the importance of this concept to the French.
If history or architecture are on your agenda when you visit France, and you want to dive deeper into the French psyche, you might want to plan a visit around a very unique week-end: the Journées du Patrimoine.
Les Journées du Patrimoine is the third week-end in September each year, and held all over France. Over 15,000 châteaux, churches, monuments, and heritage sites are open to the public. Many feature special tours, expositions, or art exhibits for the occasion. The most interesting aspect to me is that many private châteaux open to the public, uniquely for this event. The châtelains receive a government incentive to do so, and usually give the tours themselves (the Château de Balleure has been open in the past, but Nicole said having over a thousand visitors in one week-end is too much, even for her!).
Many of the attractions are open at reduced prices. That’s the good news. The bad news is that in addition to pride in their heritage, the reductions cause the French to turn out in force, and other tourists too. If you want to be part of a communal atmosphere, you got it. If you want a quiet tour, come another time.
This past week-end was the Patrimoine, and we cruised over to the most impressive fortified château in our area, Berzé-le-Châtel, which is an enormous compound perched high on a hill in the Mâconnais (perhaps the beginning of the second season of Downton Abbey has me dreaming of grand châteaux). We’ve toured the gardens, cellars, and chapel many times, but we stopped by hoping that the Parisian owners had opened the interiors. But no, so we popped by the 11th century Chapelle des Moines in nearby Berzé-le-ville to see the beautiful frescos.
I remember one particular Journées du Patrimoine when we toured the private château in Messey-sur-Grosne, very near Balleure. It’s a highly unusual one because it’s made of red brick. The owners were there: Madame tall and blond and dressed in a flowing white linen and lace full-length dress. Monsieur wore a white linen suit with a bowtie, and a dashing straw hat. They served champagne in the garden and recounted the history of their grand maison secondaire to their spellbound guests. Inside, we were surprised to find it completely authentic and rustic, untouched for decades, yet decorated with fine antiques and old fabrics in that offhand chic French country way. No modern kitchens or luxury bathrooms here–just the soul of the French patrimoine.
Photo: The owner of another nearby Château in Cormatin gets ready for the big week-end.
For more info on the Journées du Patrimoine, go to http://www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr/. Regional sites tend to be more useful; for info specifically on Burgundy, go to http://www.bourgogne.culture.gouv.fr/
Favorite Reads: Architecture buffs who love old French villages might enjoy a book from our shelf called French Farmhouses and Cottages, which illustrates and describes the different styles by region. For a twist on French history, the beautifully photographed French America
In the Comments this week: Welcome to Jacki and Annie, fans of French Dressing #1 (which keeps sort of forever, Annie, if you skip the shallots). And Jacki's been hauling French mustard across oceans! Linda's entertaining the "Last Guests of Summer", but it sounds like markets and gardens are still hopping everywhere. Fern, love the zuchinni story! Merci, as always, for the lovely comments.
Our Reader's Blogs: Music and Market tours of Europe? What a great idea! Go to Anne's site at http://www.musicetc.us/. And Kat says everybody has rhythym. Read about boomwackers and drummers at Rhythym for Good.
Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride. All Rights Reserved.
11 thoughts on “The History of France, in One Week-end”
I would love to tour one of those castles, those gardens are breathtaking!
XXX Ido
Hi Lynne,
Great post and photos!
Eileen
So. I was reading the comments about the last salad of summer (too late for Maine, we are drenched in autumn’s fog!)
I thought I would add my two cents about mustard: Maile and Roland, both available in US supermarkets, and Roland available all over the place at “odd lots” kinds of stores. It is really a delicious mustard and comes as Dijon or grainy Dijon…good level of heat and great pop with the grains! Yum…
As for Maile, what can one say? My favorite! On our first trip to Paris (1973!), we bought it in a little tube to have in the car, for picnic lunches. My husband would schmear it on his sandwich with ham and tomato, but I just ate the (fabulous) bread and the mustard! With butter if I could get it, but that was gilding the lily. We were on a delayed honeymoon, drove around on the cheap for a month, ate at Paul Bocuse…the memory of a lifetime!!…and generally had a ball. We also stayed, unbeknownst to us, in a brothel! A story for another time! Oh, Lord, life is something, isn’t it?
Thanks to you and all your faithful readers, who inspired this morning’s wonderful memory.
Linda
Merci beaucoup! I’m going to keep this in mind for a future trip to France. I would love the history and les chateaux. My ancestors are from Mortagne au Perche in Basse Normandie. Is there a lot going on in that area during les journees du patrimoine?
I’m definitely bookmarking this post because next year I might be able to come in September instead of July. I do love how the French hold on to their patrimoine.
Lovely article…oh, I do love France so. Maybe someday you can come our way?
and write something about us in the lower Corrèze, upper Lot?
http://maisonburgosfrance.homestead.com/
Caesar and Lady Caroline Burgos
I love your perspective on ‘patrimoine’.
Your blog post has set me thinking, I now realize that there’s definitely much more to the word than the plain translation ‘legacy’ :).
Ohh, I’m so upset that I missed this wonderful opportunity. My french teacher told me about it on Thursday and I was floored that I didn’t know about it. The renovations on my house in Provence have taken over my life to much that I am failing to get out and enjoy all the reasons I came here! Now that makes a lot of sense, doesn’t it!
We have a weekend in the UK like this too. It’s called Heritage Weekend and takes place the second week of September.
Merci Lynn – what a lovely article. We were in Orleans with our friends for this wonderful weekend du patrimoine and had a wonderful time.
We are so excited to be heading to Southern France and Italy. We will return to Sta. Margheurita on to San Remo where I haven’t been to the wonderful markets there and then on to Antibes. Any chance you will be down South in October?
Autumn in Burgundy is so beautiful as well.
Enjoy. Thanks again. I will offer the Women’s Tour again next year!
Dear Lynn,
Thank you so much for you lovely comments on our region. I do hope that you will be able to reacquaint yourself with us in Saint-Céré. Lady Caroline and I have worked so hard to make Maison Burgos not just another house for rent, but rather every bit the destination an 800 year-old historical monument should be.
We hope you do take the time to view our many lovely pictures on our website of Maison Burgos and the region. The pictures are enlargeable. We also hope you’ll take a moment to sign our Guest Book.
Here is the website:
http://maisonburgosfrance.homestead.com/
We look forward to your stay.
à bientôt,
Caesar and Lady Caroline