R-E-S-P-E-C-T: Show that Turkey just a little bit!

Photo:  I know, I know, it's not a turkey!  But my neighbor's Mama duck and her adorable brood are destined for the table too.

Years ago Frank Lee, the  famous chef at Slightly North of Broad (everyone’s favorite Charleston restaurant), said something that I’ve never forgotten.  Especially since I’m a conflicted meat-eater (I’m a closet vegetarian who cooks with meat mainly to please my resident carnivore).  Frank Lee himself started off  his career as a vegetarian chef.

Frank said this:  When you cook with meat, it’s important to “respect the animal”.  In other words, out of respect for the animal that you have killed or cause to be killed, you must use every single bit of the animal for food.  Not once since hearing this advice have I tossed out a usable bone or part; it all goes into a stock, or a sauce, and I find that even the smallest bit of leftover meat can flavor a meal.  It's easy, and it's improved my cooking.

Example:  To make roast lemon chicken for four the other night, I bought a whole chicken and  had le boucher chop it into 6 parts.  I roasted the four meaty pieces for our dinner and put the raw wings, etc. into the stock pot.  The leftover pieces had a tiny bit of meat on them, so I first cut that off to make a meal later for the two of us, which I might pop into a stir-fry, for example.  

From my leftover parts plus some veggies I made a big pot of stock for soup.  (Cook's Note:  it doesn’t take much in the way of raw or cooked bones of any sort to make a stock that is tastier than the dismal stuff that comes in a can).  So from one 3.5 pound (1.6 kilo) chicken I made dinner for four, another dinner for two, and enough stock to make soup to serve eight.  It’s not vegetarian, but combined with lots of meatless meals, it's a compromise. 

The French, of course, take this to the extreme.  They eat every foot, beak, intestine, and tongue–not a single morceau goes into la poubelle (that darling word that means trash can).  For the French, their motivation tends to be economic and gastronomic.  And of course southern soul food is celebrated for delicious dishes made from parts of the animal that others might reject.

My other trick is to use the tiniest bits of meat in a dish, with lots of veggies and starches, and I almost always cut the amount of meat in a recipe in half or more.  I prefer to eat this way anyway:   I’d rather make a pork stew with white beans than eat a big slab of pork.  Instead of a giant steak, how about a lovely steak and potato salad with a bernaise mayonnaise?  So much better, and better for you.

Here is a side benefit.  ‘Respecting the animal’ by using every single bit is also a healthy and economical way to eat.  It’s a deep south tradition, and a French one.  I hope it will become your cooking mantra too.  And I wish each of you and all your families a very happy and delicous Thanksgiving.

{RON'S CORNER:  "There is nothing wrong with being thrifty and using what you have, but where is the other half of my meat?"

"I'm OK with being a vegetarain, as long as there's always leftover meatloaf in the refrigerator"}.

If stock intimidates you, you’re in for a pleasant surprise.  C’est trés facile!  Here’s how I do it, plus a recipe for the best five-minute soup ever.

RECIPE:  How I make Stock

Stocks are wonderful for soups, sauces, stuffings, and many other dishes.  I’m never without a good supply of it in my freezer.  I just pop it into freezer bags.  

Poultry or meat stock:  To get a really intense stock, you must start with meaty pieces of beef or chicken. But you rarely need 'intense'.  For most soup recipes, to which you will likely add vegetables and other ingredients anyway, an intense stock is not necessary.  Taste any canned stock, and you’ll see how weak it is–and not very tasty, normally. 

To make a stock, let’s use that roasted turkey carcass as an example.  Take the meat off that you’re going to use, and throw everything else into the pot, including all bones and skin.  Add a bunch of vegetables.  Here is a chance to clean out your fridge–any leftover veggies will do.  Carrots (no need to peel them), leeks, onions, mushrooms, celery and its leaves (not too much–celery has a strong flavor), zucchini, beans, greens, all these are good.  Add salt and pepper and a bay leaf or two.  If I want a stronger stock I put in a bit of good quality jellied or powdered bouillon (some are salty, so reduce salt as needed).

Cover it all with water, add a couple of cups of white wine.  Bring it to a boil, then simmer it for a few hours. Your house will smell wonderful!  Cool it, then put a colander over a large bowl and strain it.  Pitch the solids.  Chill to skim off the fat easily, if you prefer.  Then divide it up into plastic freezer bags and freeze.  Dream of the lovely recipes you will make.

Here's another stock tip I like:  If you're cooking meat to put in a  dish–say you're cooking chicken to make chicken salad, for example–simmer a whole chicken, or meaty pieces on the bone, in water as above, just until done. Take them out, remove the meat for your dish, and put the bones and skin back in.  Continue simmering for a couple of hours. You'll have your cooked meat for your dish and you'll have a big pot of stock for another day (meat on the bone is often cheaper, too, so you're really getting a bargain!).     

Fish stock:  I don’t make this much, except for shrimp stock, which is dead easy.  Just rinse the shells and cover them in water with a bit of wine, salt and pepper, and a bay leaf.  Simmer for a half an hour, strain and freeze.   Great for seafood soups or sauces. 

RECIPE:  Elegant Artichoke Soup in Five Minutes

Drain a 14 oz.  (.4 kilo) can of artichoke hearts and chop them coarsely.  Heat up 2 cups (.5 liters) of chicken broth with a splash of white wine.  Add artichokes and a healthy squeeze  of lemon juice, stir just to heat.   Pour in soup bowls and sprinkle with some freshly grated parmesan and finely chopped scallions (both white bulbs and green stems) or chives.  Serves two.

Special Note:  I wrote two articles for the December issue of France Magazine (available in US and UK, at their website or at  Amazon.com) which might interest you.  One is called 'Lyon on a Plate'. The wonderful city of Lyon is not so far from the château, so we are there often, sampling the food in France's gastronomic capital.  I also wrote the "Village Life" feature on the artsy Mediterranean town of Mougins.

Favorite Reads:  I do love it when readers send in recommendations!  Especially for period books and dramas, I'm a sucker for these.  Be sure to read Linda's entertaining review in the Comments, of Susanne Alleyn's trilogy of historical mysteries set during the French revolution.  They include The Cavalier of the Apocalypse,  Game of Patience, and A Treasury of Regrets (also for Kindle and ipad). I've just ordered the first one, can't wait to try it.  Hampton (who says he made Nicole's tarte tatin, and "I can't even cook well!"), takes us beyond Downton Abbey to two BBC series I didn't know about, that he says we addicts will like : Lark Rise to Candleford (link is for season 1, DVD's are for US region 1 if you order here), and A Horseman Riding By (complete series, you'll need a UK or dual player).

…and in other reader Comments, yes Betsy, I would LOVE for readers to submit their favorite French recipes!  And thank you all, for the lovely comments, with a big bisous to Dee for her apple cake recipe, which seems quite popular.

Our Reader's Blogs:  Belinda is an American who stayed in the Château for a while, and has a charming blog about her time here, called Sixty Steps in the Turret.  Belinda and Mark, we will miss you terribly! I'm also crazy about Dani's blog, An American Girl in France.  She has news on free French lessons for new arrivals, plus that sticky tu-vous problem.

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved.