There is a romanesque church near us which was built in the 11th century. The 11th century! Six hundred years before our own Charleston was even a place.
At night the village proudly lights up their ancient church, which stands on the crest of a large hill. At sunset we often walk to see it, just after the last carillon from the giant cloche. It stands alone at the center of the village, a beacon in this radiant evening sky, its sharp stone-roofed steeple piercing the heavens. At sunset the profoundly deep blue of the early night sky takes on a luminous, one might say holy, glow around the golden stone of the church.
The church faces due west, and just over the low wall where it’s perched on its grand peak is a view that flows out around it on every side, paying homage. Hills dip and roll, the hedges divide the fields and crops as if by the hand of a fine painter, a quilt of greens dusted by the softening twilight. The white cows scattered about in the fields are tiny from our high perch, and they catch the last rays of light. Over the last hill is an otherworldly glow of ochre and gold, the final breath of fire from the spent day. We stand before the the tall oak doors of the church, breathing in the sharp coolness of the night, soaking up the absolute silence, turning now toward the rising moon.
There are really no words for this beauty or this serenity, just as no photo can capture it.
I think of a city friend who said the other day, “What do you DO all day in Burgundy, isn’t it boring?” Well it is quiet here, the foreign life can be aggravating at times, and yes we miss Charleston, and friends. But this little French moment, and so many like it, is what brought us here and, at the end of the day, what will make us stay.
In the COMMENTS: Hampton says Kate wore fake jewles with her dress, now that's a down to earth royal! Suzanne wants to know what a Pimm's Cup is (Merci Bill, for correcting my spelling). I didn't know this drink either until I started hanging out with the Brits and Aussies who live here. To make this classic British summer cocktail, you'll first have to find a bottle of Pimms No. 1 (a sort of herbed gin). Then take one slice of orange, lemon, apple, and cucumber per person and add two parts lemonade to one part Pimms. Top with a splash of club soda and a sprig of mint. If you're really a purist, you'll garnish it with borage leaves and then find a good cricket match or tennis game to watch.
Our Reader's Blogs: Diane finds her inspiration Under An Olive Tree, out in the country south of Rome. And Heather of Lost in Arles, in the south of France, is dreaming over houses this week. No new recipe chez nous this week, but over at Provence in Ann Arbor, Liza is making a really interesting watermelon salad which we'll be trying soon.
12 thoughts on “Catching our Breath in the Crépuscule”
That church reminds me of the one just next to our courtyard when we stayed at Chateau St. Vallerin in Burgundy. Do you know that town? It’s not far from Chalon. I totally get what you mean about the French moment. I’ll be there in 26 days and counting! I hope you enjoy the watermelon salad. Did you see I mentioned you in the Vietnamese Iced Coffee post? I had been tagged for Versatile Blogger and instead of passing the tag along, I mentioned favorite blogs and why.
What a gorgeous photo! I love that particular time of day, too, and also the dawn. I live way out in the country near the biggest wilderness area in Colorado. People would say that there is “nothing” to do here either, other than listen to the doves, hummingbirds, wrens (they sing the sweetest song of all) magpies, ravens, robins, horses,and coyotes. There is also fishing for trout in the river that runs by our house and at the lake up the road. Just yesterday there were two “cattle drives” right past my house on the way up the mountain. Early this morning I heard an elk bugle and deer sleep under the apple trees every night. We also see wild turkey, swallows, turkey buzzards and osprey! Sometimes I can’t even make myself “go to town” for a week or more. Raccoons, bobcats and bears visit from time to time and last summer a deer was killed by a mountain lion in our yard during the night. We have chickens and pigs, too. It’s not a ranch, just a little farm. I suppose that some day I will need to live closer to “services.” Until then, I’ll happily stay in the country!
Oh! I have been meaning to tell you that there is no “search” box on this page to click for Amazon.
Sights like this takes one breath away.sailing into Hong Kong harbor on the QE2 as the sky full of pink clouds and like oz the city seems suspended above he clouds and as you move closer the sun comes out between the clouds and as they part there lies hong kong gittering like a diamond in the early morning sun. And there is nothing like waching the sunset on Repulse Bay unless you are in Key West with hundreds on Mallory Square saying adieu.
All of this beauty makes me hungry-maybe lynn will share with us her recipe for white gravy to go with an early morning southern breakfast of chicken fried steak and eggs w biscuit on the side.
Lynn
I think you have to remind people that English lemonade and American lemonade are 2 different things.
For Americans, I’d suggest a Pimms Cup with either (diet) 7-up or part 7-up and part sparkling water to cut the sugar. The Brit lemonade is not American lemonade.
best
beth (in the south of France and loving it!!!)
Lynn – This is soooo beautiful. I envy you these spectacular moments in time. AND you are so amazing at sharing in both words and photos – I just love this blog. Thank You! Alice
Oh, this is just so beautiful. I’m sitting in a freezing cold office in Hudson, Ohio (far from chilly, rainy Maine), catching up on my emails and TRYING to relax…TWO house closings, one condo purchase, one and one half million things to do before the move and untold $$$ flying out of my wallet much faster than they fly in. I feel a lesser woman would be dead by now and I am off to have a Pimm’s cup with my Ohio friends!!
Your blog just elevates my spirits so much, every week, something so special about my favorite France…you seem to know what we in cyberspace need before we knew we needed it. I mean, brass chicken feet! White cows in the blue hours, that church – for which I have no words. I have said this before, but it bears repeating…you are the BEST!
Linda
This so beautifully written and takes me right to those magic moments when it all comes together…
Thank you for the mention!
Lynn,all of your posts are wonderful,but today’s is magical.
WOW!! What gorgeous pictures!
Your beautiful descriptions not only capture my imagination,but
take me along with you to that glorious place. I can truly feel God’s serenity and His grace.
THANK YOU!!!
One of my friends just had a Pimm’s Cup in Chicago; she didn’t like it, but since I love all the ingredients, I think I would. If I can find the Pimm’s gin, I’ll try it sometime.
BTW, a friend living in Paris, recently told me of a French liqueur called SUZE. Since I use that in my email address and to sign my paintings, I have to try it. Do you have cocktail recipes for SUZE?
Merci beaucoup.
AND with scenery like you show in this installment of SFF, I can’t imagine being bored. It must be nice to be able to walk somewhere at crepuscule, without worrying about crime. I live in Old Louisville, a beautiful neighborhood for walking, but I always get home before sundown.
ahhh one can feel the spirit open up with that big sky and ocean of green! Can not wait to sneak in visit some time and share the ‘busy’ days.
These photos remind me of my recent stay at the Chateau de Balleure and meeting you and your husband. Your photo of the Burgundy paysage is much better than any I was able to get. I re-live my time chez Balleure through your blog, but there is no substitute for Nicole’s Wednesday morning French class.