You could be forgiven for thinking the pretty, slightly faded town of Uzès was in Provence. It has the wide square full of blowsy plane trees, the smokers with faces tanned to leather lanquishing at outdoor cafés, the gritty, sun-baked feel of a southern town. I’ve even seen guide books list it as Provence. But in fact it's a smidge over the border, in the Languedoc.
After passing a stressful couple of weeks, to regroup we up and went to Uzès last week, for a little retreat. It’s not the first time we’ve been there, and it won’t be the last. If you’re visiting either Provence or the Languedoc, this may be be your perfect home base.
Uzès has an embarrassment of riches: its lovely square is reminiscent of Italy, with deep loggias shading the buildings and the soothing sound of the fountain that sits at its center. It has a number of fabulous restaurants. It was a Gallo-Roman settlement and is chock full of history, with three feudal towers, a chapel and a cathedral. It’s just a skip and a jump from Avignon, Nimes, and Orange. It’s a bit of an antique center, so there’s brocanting galore. It also has the liveliest Saturday market in the area (photo, right).
To add to that, it has our new favorite inn, discovered by our good friends Gerad and Maria on their last visit. It's a chambre d’hote really, with five rooms plus a two bedroom apartment. You might pass by the Maison de la Bourgade, on a narrow rue, without a second thought. But push open the double oak doors and you’re in a Provençal (well, a Languedoc-ian ) dreamworld. There’s a welcoming foyer and a big living room strewn with books and sofas you could sink into deeply. Go out through the portes-fênetres to a big walled garden and there is cool grass, a palm tree, and an arbor of vines. In the shade of a giant mulberry tree, the delightful hostess Elisabeth might be serving guests an over-the-top 
breakfast. When we were there the spread included pastries, numerous bakery breads, and cheeses. Plus there was fresh peach salad with mint, and little individual strawberry-apple fruit smoothies. And something special each day: Elisabeth served us homemade crêpes one day, and crème caramel (for breakfast!) the next. We spent our leisurely petits déjeuners chatting with an three different charming couples, who hailed from Australia, California, and Atlanta. It was all quite divine; one day we barely left the garden (at left in photo, courtesy of Maison de la Bourgade).
When we did venture out, it was off to a nearby Unesco site, the Pont du Gard. An enormous Roman aqueduct built in first century, the site includes a truly fascinating museum that takes you through the process of building an aqueduct. Next trip we want to rent kayaks and paddle down the Gardon river, to view the Pont from above. (photos below, the Pont du Gard, and the river Gardon viewed from the acqueduct).
All relaxed now. Does this have you dreaming of your next trip? Hope so!
Speaking of trips, several loyal readers have visited the château this year! It was great to meet Judy and her husband Fred from NC, and Jacki from Boise, and then our beloved Belinda and Mark from Pittsburgh came for a return visit.
Favorite Reads: Look for the stunning fall/winter issue of the Country French 'bookazine' if you love French decor. I wrote two of the articles in this issue. One features the NC home of our great friends Rudy and Ellen, who have a house near us as well. The other is the New Orleans home of Alix and Paul (who've shared their Spanish omelette and gazpacho recipes with us), who also have a house in Provence. You may not find Country French at the grocery store, since it's more book than magazine, but your local bookstore should have it. Meanwhile one of our readers, Christine Webb-Curtis, has written a mystery I can't wait to check out, called The Diva's Demise — A Cape Cod Crime Mystery
In the COMMENTS: Merci for the kind comments. Hampton, yes I've been making white peach jam from the peaches that fall over from my neighbor's tree. Linda, happy moving and keep speaking French, even if you are amusant! Sandy and Natalia and Mary James at Mary James en Provence are all thinking of the bedtime French program, and trying the nighttime osmosis plan for learning French, good luck with that. I'll join you if it works.
14 thoughts on “The Best Provençal Town That Isn’t in Provence”
We visited Uzes a while ago and will definitely try to get there again, with your recommendations in mind. Where has the summer gone…we are just back in Virginia after a wonderful 3+months in Beaune. I intended to contact you all summer but time just go away from us. I have had a book on CLUNY history for you & Ron on my desk in Beaune all summer but will have to mail it next year! sorry!!! Re-entering is bittersweet but I have your blog each Friday to keep me in Burgundy during the winter. A bientot, Patty
You were so close to me in Arles!!! Only 45 minutes more and voila! Ah, but I do love Uzes. It really is one of my favorite towns in Provence–whether it is technically or not. 🙂 It is also wonderful to visit right before the holidays for excellent shopping–“Les Affaires Etrangeres” is a favorite. But if you come back in summer, I would recommend a visit to La Huitre et La Vigne–an ephemeral “restaurant” in the middle of a vineyard!
I would love to hear what restaurants you particularly liked…
xo,
Heather
Another place in France that I want to see! I’d probably just stay in the garden and get fat -er, LOL.
I look forward to Southern Fried French; it’s like a virtual trip every Friday!
A question: what kind of recipes do you want submitted? I have a great chocolate cake recipe somewhere, called Black Magic cake.
J’adore la belle Provence!
We love Uzes as well Lynn.
Merci beaucoup for the wonderful Chambre d’hote recommendation. What a lovely get away! Putting it on my list after your fabulous description of the beautiful garden setting and breakfasts.
We hope to be in France by November now. Look forward to meeting you and Ron somewhere along the journey in the months ahead!
Wishing you a lovely Autumn and start to the new season.
I just returned from a very short but full visit to London and Paris. I’d been practicing my French for a long time prior to returning to Paris after many years. I was proud of my efforts, but chagrined when, after ordering my dinner in French, the waiter brought me an English-language menu! 🙁
I picked up Country French for the first time just the other day at Central Market in Southlake, TX and what a delicious feast for the eyes. I even chose my favorite rooms so when I find that perfect re-do project in Provence, I know that at least the inside will already be planned. What a treat to learn you authored two of the articles.
We attended the Pont du Gard fireworks show one weekend last June and it was spectacular! Your picture took me back there again. Thank you!
Katie
frenchcravings.com
Moi meme,aussi, Carrie!
We drove past Uzes and unfortunately, weren’t able to stop and enjoy.
THANK YOU,Lynn, for taking us along with you and
allowing us to participate in all the fun associated with such a great place!
NO better way to start the weekend!
Bon journee!!!
Haven’t made it to France this year but I did get to Pittsburgh :-). Love your photos as always, keep ’em coming s’il vous plait!
So glad you had enough water to float the Gard. It was too low during our visit. Thanks for the lovely intro to Uzes!
Lynn, we are still dreaming of our wonderful time at the chateau and all the new friends we made! We are already plotting our return visit and the chambre d’hote in Uzes is definitely on the list. The Country French is gorgeous and your two articles were the best. Can’t believe Ellen’s gorgeous French villa is two hours from here! Keep Southern Fried French coming to feed my addiction!
Paddling an aqueduct over a river, what an idea, what a view. Reminds me, inversely, of standing on the lawn of an estate in Holland while a barge went by in a canal well above eye level. I want to hear about the food of Languedoc.
Lynn,
Thanks so much for the plug you gave me in your blog about Uzes. I had hoped our next book would be published by now, but I will have to manage its publication from France as we leave tomorrow for our month in Lagnes followed by our two months north of Bayonne. This is our way of following in the footsteps of the Colorado/France waterways nomads–even if only for a little while.
Chris
Dear Lynn: I love your blog specially the recipes and your tips about traveling in France. I would love to visit Uzes and other French towns.
I’m planning to travel next Summer with my daughter and grandson. I would like to stay in a small town but with good transportation to other big cities and attractions.
Please let me know of some inns ( I really loved Maison de la Bourgade) or hotels that won’t break my bank.
I look forward to Fridays so I can read your blog.
Gracias !
María E. Sastre, Puerto Rico