I’m writing this post in case anyone else has had a similar dilemma. Which is, making the perfect birthday cake for someone you adore, when baking is not your forté.
I can whip up some mean biscuits and a mess o’ cornbread, but otherwise, I’m not much of a baker. It requires too much precision from someone who likes to make things up as they go along.
But, my beloved husband requested a chocolate cake for his birthday. Yikes, I’ve never quite found the perfect recipe for that! I’m not fond of the devil’s food kind, with heavy buttercream frosting; it reminds me too much of a cake mix. And yet I wanted a big fat American-sized cake but with French élan, the kind that you eat when you forget the diet and the cholesterol, and totally indulge yourself for the sheer joy of still being alive after all these years.
So first I looked to the French. When they make a chocolate cake, it’s light and rich, one layer only, and usually served simply, with a bit of cream on the side. So why not wamp it up, with lots of layers, a filling, and some French chocolate ganache?
Luckily I happened across Valerie’s Chocolate Cake, on the Smitten Kitchen website. Valerie is French, so she knows instinctively how to rock a chocolate cake. The site gave instructions for making three layers (double the recipe, but use three pans), and it worked great.
Then, with perfect timing, the New York Times featured an article last week on classic French chocolate ganache. Read this even if you’re not making a cake. You can use it as a sauce for ice cream, a glaze, a frosting—and it’s so simple you can make it in the microwave. And I am here to tell you that if you want to skip the cake and just lap it up with a spoon, you won’t be disappointed.
But after all that effort, who wants to make a complicated filling? I had the idea that crème fraîche might work. It was perfect. I whipped it with a little sugar, and stirred in some of the chocolate ganache. It added just a bit of tang to the cake, to cut the sweetness of the rest.
There was a big party (for 35-ish) at the château for Nicole and Ron (born a day apart), and the cake was a success. We are now all a bit older, and fatter. And happier, bien sûr!
RECIPE: The Ultimate Franco-American Chocolate Birthday Cake
I made Valerie’s French chocolate cake from the Smitten Kitchen blog. At the bottom of the post she tells you how to make three layers if you want to do it American style. I used 8” cake pans instead of 9”, and it was fine. I didn’t bother to freeze them before frosting, they were quite easy to handle. Photo: my cake on the buffet dessert table at the château birthday party.
For the filling: Crème fraîche comes in liquid form, or épaisse, which means thick; I used the latter. (If you can’t find it, mix half sour cream and half whipped heavycream). I used about a cup of crème fraîche, and I added 2 tablespoons of confectioner’s sugar (icing sugar, if you’re a Brit) and a splash of vanilla. I also added about 1/2 cup of chocolate ganache (instead you could add dissolved espresso powder, or other flavoring, or stir in raspberries or other fruit at the end). Then I beat it with an electric mixer for a minute or two, until it was fluffy and well combined.
Read about how to make chocolate ganache here, in Julia Moskin's article. This stuff, as she says, is a marvel. A note on using it as a frosting or glaze: if you put it in the fridge, it gets quite firm. I just zapped it in the microwave for a few seconds when I was ready to frost the cake, but ONLY for a few seconds. Once a bit of it is semi-melted, you can stir it to soften up the rest. This made plenty; cut it in half if you don’t want leftovers. You will, but your hips may not.
To assemble, spread the filling between the layers, spread the ganache generously on the top, and garnish. Cut a big fat slice and eat with abandon.
In the COMMENTS: Bonnie and Alix share my opinion of Lacoste, from last week's post. And you'll see a comment form Sandy Vann, a francophile who has read my blog over the years, we've communicated from time to time–and we got to meet when she and her husband Terry came down to Cluny, during their Burgundy travels. Nice to meet you at last, Sandy and Terry!
Favorite Reads: Want to try something fun? Go the Kim's 24/7 in France blog, and test your French cheese abilities with her French Cheese Quiz. She describes a dozen famous French cheeses, and you have to guess what they are. Also this week, in the Unexcused Absenses blog, Heather and Kent have a funny story called the Great Coin Shortage that is the quintessential French tale, when it comes to how the French do business. We've been telling it to friends here. They all laugh, but nod knowingly. Everyone here has a similar story!
12 thoughts on “French Elegance, American Excess: The Ultimate Birthday Cake”
Lynn,
What a fabulous recipe for one of my favorite desserts, chocolate cake. The combination of an American cake with French panache so creative. It looks absolutely delicious. It was such a delight to spend time with you and Ron in Cluny, sharing stories and experiences. Mille merci’s encore pour tout.
You have outdone yourself with this gift of a recipe, Lynn! I’m not the baker type either (except for bread), but this cake is calling my name. Thanks for sharing.
All the best from Thea
Lynn – Just in time for my husband’s birthday! He’ll love it! I’m really looking forward to making this cake and the size (I think I’ll bake just one layer) will keep us from over indulging as we always tend to do. Now . . . if it’s the hit I think it will be I’ll bake the 3 layer version for my mother’s 89th birthday at the end of September. She’s the true chocoholic in the family!
Thanks so much for sharing the recipes!
I have a good chocolate cake recipe, Lynn, the best I’ve ever made, and a bit simpler from the Hershey’s chocolate can; it’s called Black Magic Cake, and the secret is coffee. I’ll post it later.
Your cake sounds absolutely delicious. I never bake desserts anymore, but perhaps for a potluck. I’d be eating the ganache out of the spoon; love the stuff.
Hi Lynn, Barefoot Contessa’s Beatty’s Chocolate Cake is the best chocolate I have ever had and very easy to make. I look forward to trying your recipe.
Lynn,you have shared some wonderful recipes (desserts and otherwise) with us;there is only one word for this one–fabulous!
I was searching for something really special to make for our(49th!) anniversary next week, and WOW!! Here it is!
Thank you for this special surprise!
(and,of course, each post of SFF!)
And it was really delicious. Many thanks for the recipe
Joyeux Anniversaire a Ron et beaucoup de plus! Great recipe- seems like a lock for my 60th in Novemeber. We did not know that Nicole and Ron were one day apart. Un photo formidable! Hope you cracked open a bottle of that Pouilly Fuisse. Ken and Josie Scupp
Hi Lynn,
Being the chocoholic I am, my mouth is watering just reading your recipe. Wish we could have been there to celebrate with Nicole and Ron. Somehow I remember discovering that Nicole and I have the same birthday but did not know that Ron’s was a day apart. Happy belated birthday to Ron!
My mouth is watering at this sound & sight of your chocolate creation Lynn! I do love to bake but actually I try not to since indulging of sweets are my ultimate weakness. I am thinking now perhaps baking a dessert for tomorrow might be in order…it’s been awhile. Thank you for the recipe!
Lynn, just wondering if this is a Devil’s food type chocolate cake? Also wondering if the Beatty’s Chocolate cake mentioned in the comments is a Devil’s Food type recipe?
Thanks!
Hi, Lynn. — My husband and I are currently in Beaune. We had dinner last night and the night before at Ma Cuisine and La Ciboulette ( which you recommended ) and had two fantastic dinners. Both places far exceeded our expectations. I can”t. thank you enough for your tips. We owe our wonderful evenings to you!
Mary C.