I don’t quite know how it happened, but almost all of the expat friends we’ve met here, and some of our French ones, moved to southern Burgundy about the same time we did, a decade ago. We all learned French together, renovated houses together; many of us had our first grandkids during this time. And now, a decade later, suddenly there’s another shift. Everyone seems to be downsizing, or heading back home for the winter, or taking a round-the-world trip, or shaking it up a bit in some fashion. Ron has dubbed the transition “The Twilight of the Decade”.
Whatever changes come along, our “tribe” has had a stable center: the château, and Nicole and Pierre. We lived in the castle three years before we bought an old stone farmhouse nearby, but it has always remained our spiritual French home, and a sort of social center for friends.
But even at our 600 year-old castle, things change. Though the château has been in Pierre’s family for 300 years, sometimes it’s just time to move on.Renovating and maintaining a château is a full-time job, and though they’ve devoted their life to it, with some help from our crowd, at some point it’s time to say, Enough. As Nicole says, they are simply guardians, and now it’s time for someone else to carry on the tradition.
And so, the château has been SOLD! To a fine French couple who will hopefully love it as we all have.
Nicole and Pierre have bought a normal-sized house in a small town nearby, where they can walk to boucherie and boulangerie. Though the house is only 25 years old, oddly enough it has un petit peu of the ambiance of the château. There are attached village houses all around, but this maison sits back from the road on a nice piece of land, with grand entry gates. There is even a tower! And, a huge terrace where party-girl Nicole can continue her grand fêtes. It’s still looking for a name: ChateauFaux? ChateauToo? The Mini-Chateau? Ideas are welcome! Photo: The work crew takes a break.
As you can imagine, tears have been shed. But we are all happy that Nicole and Pierre have found a great new house, and life will be easier for them.
That is, after they’ve renovated the new purchase, AND moved many decades of accumulated stuff out of the chatêau. Yesterday, for example, was a workday (with pizza for lunch) for our crowd. Even our US houseguests Jack and Emily—visiting us for a few days after their Paris honeymoon—were pressed into service. We packed up literally hundreds of dinner plates, hundreds of dessert plates and glasses. After all, there are four kitchens in the château, not to mention all the other stuff. Photo: Bye-bye to all that.
As I write this, I’m sitting in a café in Cluny with an espresso and a brioche, and there is a harpist under a tree, sending his angelic notes floating around the square. I’m looking at the lovely facade of the 10th century Abbey de Cluny. I think of the blessings this decade has brought, and a tear rolls down my cheek.
But life must go on, and so will this blog! Thanks for sharing the journey with me, and we’ll see what the next decade in France will bring. à la semaine prochaine…
In the COMMENTS: Harriet, Barney, Sandy, and Rainey, thanks for adding to our French knowledge with more time expressions! Rainey near Uzes sent a link to her daugter's vacation rental site in the same area, which will REALLY have you dreaming of the south of France. Rainey, Uzes is one of our favorite places, we are there often. Natalia, good point about blanche. Blanche can also mean to make white or pale, so maybe nuit blanche it's how you look after you're up all night!
23 thoughts on “The Twilight of the Decade”
Oh Lynn,
Sorry to hear this news but glad we had the opportunity to enjoy some great meals there with the expat friends. We will be sure to visit Nicole and Pierre when we return next summer and see their new digs.
Connie
xxoo
Whew! I was afraid by your opening that you were announcing your own departure. But my hat’s off to any brave soul who are willing to give their lives and time to historic homes like your chateau. Even with our small apartment in a building only one hundred years old, my husband and I spend much of our too brief France visits dealing with maintenance. I’m about to head there next week to make sure all the repairs from the summer are still holding. But change can be exciting, so send my best to your dear friends.
What a touching post today Lynn, beautifully written as always. Change …it takes considerable courage bien sur, but seems to be such a source of renewal as well. Warmest wishes to Nicole and Pierre in their new home. Wish we had been able to meet them in September, perhaps next year. Hope all of you enjoy many more wonderful new experiences together in the years ahead. What a treasure chest of beautiful, special memories you have of the last decade.
Bon courage a tous.
Wishing you the best for continued happiness, love, & friendship!
You made me melancholic….I am from France and I moved to Buffalo, NY 25 years ago. My half is American and he loves France. We would love to retire 6 months in France and 6 months here….
Lynn, such a beautiful farewell to the chateau. Happy for Nicole and Pierre. Change is good!
We have some of the most special memories from our 3 week stay with Nicole and Pierre almost 7 years ago. And, I have loved reading your blog Lynn these past years. Our very best to you and we do hope to return one day soon!
The Cintron Family, Simsbury Connecticut
How can we picture le Chateau de Balleure without Nicole and Pierre? C’est impossible! In my mind and in my memory, they will always be there. Good luck to them in their new home. Jacki Liddell, Boise, ID
Thank you, always, for your insights into your experience of French culture. The posts regarding the chateau have evoked an era rapidly disappearing. I am sad to think that we won’t be hearing more. My wish is that you become great friends with the new owners and that when things change at the chateau, your readers will learn all about it!
Lynn,your beautiful post today had a tear rolling down my cheek,too.I feel like my favorite neighbors and friends have moved away!!But so applaud them for following their hearts and wish them every happiness and blessing.
The best news is that you will be continuing with your wonderful blog!You fill our Fridays with sunshine(even when it’s cloudy out!) and
we do so appreciate SFF and being participants in your lives.
Thank you!
I’m glad I had the opportunity almost three years ago to stay in the chateau with Pierre and Nicole and to see some of the Burgundian countryside with them (lots of rain that spring). I vividly remember the Wednesday morning conversation class when I sat next to you, Lynn—the theme that Nicole chose that day was anti-Semitism in contemporary France. And I remember Saturday market day in Cluny, which was a magnet for many of the expats in the area. You all knew each other and your camaraderie was clearly evident. I won’t forget Nicole’s cooking, either. When she discovered that I liked rabbit (perhaps not that common for an American) lapin à la Dijon soon appeared on the table. Not only the twilight of a decade but perhaps of an era. But I know it was a great ten years and I wish you all many more!
There is a mixture of sadness & joy within your post today Lynn. Changes are difficult for everyone. I’ve experienced many myself with leaving homes that I gave ‘birth’ to & then let them fly free as we do with our children. With that being said, there’s a certain freedom but that only comes after the melancholy leaves. I choose to make my memories selective & only remember the good times as most of mine are. After many decades of living in Colorado & then moving to Arizona at this age was ‘gutsy’ to say the least. It was a very good choice in some ways but I will always miss Colorado & the people. These are the choices we make & how wonderful we do have a choice.
Thank for sharing this beautiful post. X
Dear Lynn, we feel your pain!! “Our” Provençal home of the past 7 years sold this summer as well!! We were unable to spend September-October there as is our custom. Hopefully we will be able to return next spring!??
Our dear friends and prior owner of La Genestiere, Francois et Marie-Claire have promised us that we will always have a place to stay with them. They have become such good friends. They have visited us here in Sunset Beach, NC several times and love it as much as we do. The rain finally stopped, the summer people are gone and we are enjoying our home on the intercoastal. We are trying to find a time to spend a long weekend in YOUR Charleston.
I hope everything works out for you and maybe our paths will cross. Keep having fun,
Lee & Maureen
Dear Lynn & Ron:
I cherise now my Friday’s “escapades” into the blog of ” Southern Fried French”, I have nor had the pleasure of meeting your illustrious friends from the Chateaux but I do understand the need for a change, lucky for them they will still have a place in France, to continue the pleasures & joy of all wonderful things we all have come to love, indeed a piece of heaven on earth.
A grateful soul.
Paul Rico
Perhaps they could call the new little chateau a chateauette.
Lynn,
I am sad because as of yet I haven’t been able to get there to meet you and stay at the chateau; perhaps the new owners will continue the tradition. I will still look forward to Southern Fried French and depend upon you to take me each time on a virtual trip to France.
Thanks to you all for your sweet comments.
We have dedicated the last 47 years to this beautiful château.
When I first came in 1967 I just hated it. I couldn’t have been more wrong.
Too dark, too big, far too uncomfortable, too run down and what came first was “what on earth am i doing here?”
Obviously it had been lived in by lots of people, you could sense it, and I felt I had no right for being there. What had Pierre done to me???
For the first 3/4 years I really wondered how I was going to be able to put with it.
It came naturally weeks after weeks, years after years, and a real love story started.
We didn’t really chose to own a château, it just happened, and it more owned us than the contrary.
We gave it all our time, all our energy, all our imagination (you need a lot to turn a medieval building into a modern medieval château as I used to call it to guests who were quite surprised to find the modern facilities here, and, of course all our money.
We have had here the most exciting, entertaining, interesting time anyone can dream of.
We have hosted hundreds of friends and guests giving them a touch of history in addition to a feel of French life style and warm friendship.
Anybody who has come here has been hosted as a friend or a member of the family.
We are particularly happy we met Lyn and Ron who have been great addition to our lives and are real family members.
All the work and money we have put here was really worth it.
We have turned a very run down place into a totally restored château and I dare say we can be proud of what have done.
Now it is time to move to quieter, more normal life (don’t know how we are going to cope with that as we don’t have much experience of normality!!!)
ChâteauNeuf, when restored, will be Party Central and home to our friends and guests from far and beyond.
Just look forward!
love you, Lynn
Nicole
Lynn, I’m sure ChateauNeuf will be a lovely, happy home for Nicole and Pierre. I know they will find it to be refreshing and create a perfect home for comfort and entertaining. Oh, and I must say that you are looking very pretty there at the table creating a soulful blog. Thanks also for offering help in my search for the perfect holiday house at an affordable price in Provence. I can hear “Good luck with that!” coming back at me since the location isn’t known for budget tourism. I will find a way. Keep those good stories and pictures coming!
What a charming post, Lynn! Sometimes it’s a good thing to know when to go, and pass the torch to a new owner. I wish Nicole and her husband much joy on their new adventure!
Ha! Making me jealous, Connie! 🙂
Lynn, Ron, Nicole & Pierre- Just saw this post today. What a beautiful tribute. I wish we had been there to help the team of movers. I have very mixed emotions as I know the love and care Nicole & Pierre put into that property. Josie and I feel so blessed that we got to experience it before the transition. I just hope that this make things easier for both of them. We wish you much happiness in your new home. Would love for you to post a picture or two of ChateauNeuf when ready. I will email them directly in short order.
I am so sad that this part of your lives are changing – I have so enjoyed this journey and I am sure that the next part will be equally intriguing!
Nicole,
Can’t wait to visit ChateauNeuf! I feel relieved that Pierre will not have 43 steps in the turret! We hope to see Lynn and Ron in Charleston next week and you two sometime in 2015. What great memories of our two visits to the chateau including Fred’s wonderful birthday party!
Keep those workmen moving along on your renovations!
A bientot!
Judy and Fred