The Long Arm of French Cuisine

LeadThe famous French Cuisine has a long reach, and inspires cooks all over the world. With its rich sauces, sumptuous ingredients, and classic preparations, it has prompted many a distant chef to mash up, mix up, juggle and prod it into something that is a little French and a little new.

Case in point: I discovered an interesting French restaurant this very week, in the unlikeliest of spots. I'm visiting the states for a reunion with my three college roommates, one  of whom lives in Franklin, North Carolina, where we gathered.

Now unless you've dropped off the Appalachian trail to pick up supplies or you're a snowbird from Florida looking for a quiet retreat, you may have missed the small but charming mountain town of Franklin, with its one block long main street of 19th century brick buildings. We decided to dine at Franklin's finest. This is a unique restaurant just outside of town called Caffé REL, which is attached to the back of the Hot Spot Gas Station. We had to arrive at the decidedly un-French hour of 5:00, because by 5:20 the crowd is always lined up outside the door and the wait is long.

MenuDespite the Italian spelling of the name, you will know it's a French restaurant by the Eiffel Tower on the cover of the menu, and les fleurs de lys which were scattered about everywhere. The decor is country kitsch with French flair. On the walls surrounding the tables were dark Victorian furniture pieces displaying homey do-das, and shelves  packed with antique cameras, country bric-a-brac, and photos from Paris.The walls prominently featured someone's rather extensive framed butterfly collection plus lots of French posters. On the wall of the  open kitchen there was a large flag of yellow, red, and black stripes, which turned out to be the flag of Belgium. When asked about it, the manager said cheerfully, "we just liked the colors".

PumpAdding to the festive international air, our charming waitress was Asian American. The food was French-ish, tossed around with a little Italian spice and some distinctly regional flavors. Photo left: Fuel up your car and your soul at Franklin’s hot spot for dining.

They kind of lost the plot when it came to desserts, which suited us just fine. No petite and delicate French pastries here: on the counter there was an assortment of super-sized, over-the-top southern cakes and pies. There was a mile-high chocolate cake, a caramel cake, a sweet potato cheesecake with a nut crust, an old-fashioned chocolate pecan pie. And I'd walk a country mile, or even a French kilometer, to eat there again.

Caffé REL, 459 E. Main St., Franklin NC, 828-369-9446

IF YOU GO to Franklin, there is a sophisticated and delicious new farm-to-table restaurant on main street called The Bowery, which is also not to be missed.

 

 

Front  Hot

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo left, truly the "Hot Spot" in Franklin for French cuisine. Above, by 5:15, the place was packed and the wait was on.

 

 

 

 

Decor2

 

Above, Eclectic decor at Caffé REL; below, the French theme was abandoned for a groaning board of southern cakes and pies.

Cakes

 

Recipe: French Blue Batard 'Caffé REL'

batard is basically a sandwich-sized baguette, shorter than a regular baguette.

 For one sandwich: Sauteé a finely chopped shallot and chopped garlic clove in a bit of olive oil, for about 2 minutes. Add a hearty serving of cooked, fresh blue crab claw meat (or use chopped, cooked shrimp); stir and sauté for one minute more. Remove from heat, stir in a spoonful of capers and some chopped scallions, and drizzle with lemon juice.
 
Spread on a split batard (or a baguette cut to sandwich length) and top generously with grated parmesan cheese.  Wrap in foil and heat in 375 degree (175C) oven until nice and hot, about 15 minutes.  Serve with baby spinach drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette.
 
 
 
GirlsFavorite "Listens" from the COMMENTS: I was thrilled to get so many great recommendations for French music, for dinner parties and beyond. Author MJ (see MJ's  books here) likes Carla Bruni's (a.k.a. Mde Sarkozy) Little French Songs. Natalia likes the nostalgia of Paul Mauriat. Both Leslie and Alix recommend  Pink Martini, who do the classic Piaf and Brel songs, and more. Barbara of First Reader Consulting has a long list, including Paris To Cuba, which I know and love. Carole has a good idea: classic French composers, and French movie themes. Paula suggests some gypsy swing, which I LOVE, like  Django Reinhardt & Stephane Grappelli. Bonnie, I did not know Canadian singer Stacy Kent had an all-French album, Raconte-Moi, and I will try your other suggestions too. Something here for everyone!
 
Photo above: Toasting our college days with a little French wine while we await our table: that’s me on the left, with Barb, Nancy, and Lynn
 

11 thoughts on “The Long Arm of French Cuisine”

  1. Melody Gardot is a FANTASTIC artist as well. She has some songs in French, but I love all of her songs.

  2. That batard sounds delicious. Too bad my favorite deli with the yummy bagettes ( they called the short ones baguettes, and the long ones Parisians) has now closed due to retirement.
    I would have to LOVE that sandwich, with crabmeat. Is Franklin near New Bern? Have some friends there.

  3. Your blog will be the talk of Franklin, not because nothing much happens in Franklin (which may be true) but because you have perfectly described Caffe REL! Still thinking about our great weekend! Barb

  4. SO great to see you 4 lovely women together in this magical beautiful Southern town!
    Carol Graybeal

  5. Bonjour Chere Lynn, Felicitation on finding another fun “french” restaurant in America’s backwoods. When in the States, we seem to dive into Mexican and sea food but you inspire us to search for those other fun foods. Always love your “Blob” as your sweet mother calles it. Keep it up, Love and hugs, Montelle

  6. Thank you for the Batard recipe, sounds delicious! You all look so cute enjoying yourself together & what fun I’m certain you had. Those desserts look to die for!

  7. Vicky from Athens

    Great post!! Oh, I just can’t wait til the next time I head up #441 from Athens, GA going to the Smokies to hike! French in Franklin!! That’s a great accompaniment to the Scottish plaid museum there. Europe as one can find only in the foothills of the Appalachains – Such a treat!! We usually stop at LuLu’s in Sylva, NC to feast on our way home from hiking/backpacking. BTW . . . if you haven’t eaten at LuLu’s it’s great! Try it next time you’re in the area. Anyway, time for us to make a change and stop in Franklin – we can fuel up there in more ways than one!
    BTW . . .I’ll be in L’Isle sur La Sorgue soon – any suggestions on places to dine? Anything that’s a “don’t miss”? Any suggestions in general?

  8. Thank you for the ever so elegantly simple suggestion of heating parmesan on a baguette! That will be a hit here in funny little Bourdeilles.

  9. THANK you,Lynn,for this wonderful post.Really a delicious slice of life
    From a place that we might otherwise never be privileged to know about.
    Posing a possibility for the recipe:perhaps lobster could be substituted
    For the blue shells?Hard to find here in the Southwest.
    You girls are gorgeous and clearly enjoying every second!

  10. I’m so glad that you found Cafe REL! We live in Atlanta and have a mountain house in western NC approximately 20 miles from Franklin. The realtor that sold us our NC lot is the wife of Richard, the owner/chef of Cafe REL. Btw, REL are his initials (funny!) and his mother was French. We absolutely love the food and it’s truly a treasure tucked in the Appalachian foothills. We lived in Provence 2 years ago and we are transported across the pond, when we take a bite of anything at this quaint restaurant in a gas station!

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