We were over at our châtelains’ home this week, Nicole and Pierre’s new digs. I had admired the enormous tree that covered half of their back garden before, but I hadn’t quite realized it was a un cerisier. But now there was no mistaking it: it was a mass of lush green, waving in the soft breeze, festooned with bright red polka dots. “Take all you want!” said Nicole. “There is plenty for everyone.”
And so we did. There is nothing that marks the beginning of summer in France quite like gathering cherries under the shade of a huge tree, lush and verdant on a lazy, warm, day in May. Some of the limbs were so long and heavy that I could sit on the ground with my basket and pick them.
When we finished, our baskets, and our bellies, were quite full. Now, what to do with a surfeit of cherries? And is there even such a thing as a surfeit of cherries?
After giving baskets of them away to neighbors, I began to contemplate desserts. A black forest cake came immediately to mind, but that sounded way too complex for the early days of l’été. So I decided to make a deconstructed one: A slice of simple French chocolate cake, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, all topped with a brandied cherry sauce.
Nicole has given me a present: a cherry pitter! I knew they existed, but I’d never seen one (I’ve been using a low-tech chopstick for the task). It made pitting them a snap, and kind of fun, though it still takes a while. A bored spouse or child is perfect for this task. That's my new cherry pitter, at the right.
The French make the best chocolate cakes ever. They are not flourless; I find those too rich, like eating a large, heavy candy bar. Nor are they spongy like American layer cakes, which are made to stand up to layers of frosting. These are just rich enough, and made to be eaten without frosting. I’ve written about them in two different posts: Catherine’s Mystery Cake, and Valerie's Chocolate Cake. The recipes are similar, and not too hard to make.
The cherry sauce is dead-easy. A taste of the best seasonal fruit, paired with chocolate: welcome to summer!
RECIPE: Brandied Cherry Sauce
Merci to our friends John and Joan, who inspired this recipe. This will make about 8 servings.
Remove the pits from a pound (500mg) of cherries. Using this opportunity to pry a teen away from their cell phone is ideal. (or if you're just going to make these up for snacking on, leave the pitts in).
Place cherries in a saucepan. Add 1/2 cup (100 gr) sugar and 1/2 cup (120ml) of brandy or Kirsch, and a cinnamon stick. Bring them just to the boil, then simmer them for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. They should hold their shape and the liquid should be syrupy (if too thin, remove cherries and cook sauce down a little more). Cool and pour them into a jar and refrigerate. Serve them over French chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream. The leftovers will not be unwelcome spooned over your vanilla yogurt in the morning.
Photo left: Ron the Gatherer, hard at work.
In the COMMENTS, on pimento cheese: Who knew pimento cheese would evoke such passions and food memories? Lots of interesting additions to our recipe: Maryanne, a Charleston girl, adds the juice from the pimentos for color—and a bit of olive juice! Suzanne skips the onion for just a touch of honey. Julie, another SC native, argues for minimal salt. Cynthia, I like the idea of a bit of lemon juice. And Vicky, I'd forgotten, pecans are a great addition. Several people suggest Duke’s mayo as the only way to go, but Sarah is duking it out with Helmans. Clyde, we love Bonnie, but please tell her to step away from the pimento cheese. Clyde also has another gourmet brand to suggest. Christine, it all sounds good except the pickle juice. Natalia, we are counting on you to bring pimento cheese to Arizona!
Angie, welcome to France, that’s a beautiful area. And Paula, what a food story, you are fearless!
Favorite READS: My friend Sandi recommends a new edition of an old, classic cookbook by Richard Olney, Simple French Food 40th Anniversary Edition
13 thoughts on “A Dessert that Serves up Summer”
This recipe sounds terrific. I was wondering if you could substitute rum for kisrch as usually have rum around the house but never kirsch.
We must get our cherries and brandy out this summer! They have been in the cave for maybe 15 years!?!? Does alcohol get stronger than 40 percent as it ages? I hope not!
How about making a French clafoutis? This is what French people make in the summer when ther are too many cherries. Can be eaten warm, lukewarm or cold. It is a crepe batter and cherries. A delight!
Love the blog Lynn, comme d’habitude! I like the new rank for Ron. Ron the Gatherer rather Ron the Commander! Nice touch, gros bises, Montelle
My first thought, as well. Miam miam!
Lynn, your post today is wonderful,(as always) and,oh!this recipe is heaven!
Cherries and chocolate cake?How do things get better?(my favorite chocolate cake used in this way was Simca Beck’s flourless one.Can’t remember the book title,long ago now,but easy and yummy)
I have also used my belle mere’s recipe for cherry sauce(minus the cinnamon stick) as a sauce for roasted–or grilled– duck breast,though chicken could work well here too.We usually also had two sauces to accompany: cherry and a red vin sauce.Veggies were whatever was the freshest of the day.
I can’t remember and I know I’m veering a bit but when do the fabulous French pêches come to marché?
That Brandied Cherry Sauce is almost worth the belly ache that I experience from cherries. I don’t know why that happens to me but maybe the brandy will kill the ache. I also clicked on a past post of yours & bought a cookbook just now. It was the “How to Bake….”by Nick Malgieri. I must admit, I’m a very good & experienced baker & I have so many cookbooks but this was too tempting to pass up after reading the reviews. Thank you for the recipe Lynn!
Lynn, I love the beautiful photos and appreciate the recipe. Perhaps I will have the chance to try the real thing. My husband and I, along with a granddaughter, will be arriving in France tomorrow! Let the summer celebration begin!
Lovel the photos and the recipe Lynn. Pete has pitted the cherries for me before, as long as he has a nice glass of white Macon to sip, oh and a view.
I am Nicole had any cherries as her tree is next to the bird feeder…but probably plenty for them as well.
I can still remember my first french cherry…ca 1973 near Strasbourg. Tell me what has happened to our cherries and all fruit in US? Will make this in remembrance of that first mouthful.
Betsy
A clafoutis was the first thing that came to mind. But this looks good. However, I’ll have to save the recipe for another time because I have no kitchen for cake-baking until my kitchen renovations are finished.
Cherry fruits . Beautiful fruits and appetizing even when on the the parent plant. I imagine the source and with sweetness of the fruits. A desert you cant miss!!