Does anyone else have this particular marital issue? I like to travel to places I’ve never been. Ron always wants to go back again and again to his favorite haunts.
So this time I was clever. “Want to go to Parma?" I said? He quickly packed his bags, it’s a favorite destination. “Oh, and by the way, Verona, where we’ve never been, is just a bit up the road!” And so we compromised (or, as Ron said, he was hoodwinked). Anyway, if you want to settle marital difficulties, what better place than the setting for Romeo and Juliet, Italy's most romantic city?
We’re not opera fans, but it’s what you do in Verona, and we heard it was an experience, so off we went to see “Aida”. And an experience it was! The huge Roman amphitheatre, the Arena, which dates from 30 AD, sits right in the middle of town, and holds 24,000 people. Under the stars in the cool night air we watched a fantastical production on a stage that sometimes included over a hundred costumed singers, a full troupe of ballet dancers, and at one point, four large white horses prancing about. Yowsa! And of course, the story is one the greatest romantic tales in opera: a slave (secretly, a princess) who falls in love with the General of the country where she is enslaved, and he with her—a doomed love affair if there ever was one.
And then there was the gelato, and the wonderful food that is reason enough to check out this region of Italy.
I was totally unprepared for the beauty of Verona, with it’s colorful masonry rowhouses and fanciful architecture. It really is the city of romance, and we ate at what was some of the tour books claimed was the “most romantic restaurant in the world,” the Osteria Ponte Pietra. Since restaurants in this area were amazingly affordable, don’t worry about the price, it’s a must-do. The inside is cozy and brimming with Italian charm. We ate on the narrow, flowery balcony overlooking the Adige river and the Pietra bridge. Great food and impeccable, personal service. And a fine bit of romance. Ciao, Baby!
If you go: we stayed in an unusual place, called Opera Relais de Charme, in a great location. It was a hotel right in the center with not much lobby to speak of, with just one employee. It had a new but slow elevator, so we got lots of exercise getting to our 3rd floor room. But it was newly renovated, pristine really, with a fun decor, and the rooms are actually small apartments with a kitchenette/salon. Be aware that the city can be crowded, especially during the opera season when we were there (mid-August). Next time we would stay just a bit away from the very center, as we were right off the busiest pedestrian street. See last photo for our choice for next time.
The Arena (pictured at the top) is right in the heart of the city. The colorful buildings below are just across from the Arena in the same square, the Piazza del Bra.
The Arena fills up at dusk; and below, Aida in all its glory.
The castle, Castelvecchio, right in the city, is definetely worth a visit.
There is hardly an unadorned window or door in Verona. This one reflects the castle wall, and below that, a door opens out to one of Verona's many romantic balconies.
Cappuccino time in Verona
…and an art show on the street
Here is the hotel we're looking at for next time, a bit off the main square and who can resist the name? "The Gentlemen of Verona".
In the COMMENTS: Suzanne, who could resist a truffle recipe with the calories of carrot sticks! Please do share! Francine, most of the photos were from Les Carroz in the alps, and some from Cluny. Natalia has a US source for those chocolate mushrooms. Jacqui has a chocolatier to recommend in the charming town of Châteauneuf du Pape–some with Marc, which is potent stuff!
12 thoughts on “How to Renew Your Romance in Italia”
One of my favorite cities in Italy. I know it well, we have in laws there. We are usually there for Christmas, and there is a wonderful Christmas market ( and there are less tourists). The food is deliciousl, with lots of alpine fare. They have ruined the so-called Julietta’s balcony so you could skip that…..
In Parma, the antiques market, the most important in Italy is called Mercante in Fiera. Really interesting, if you are there at the right time.
Thank you for a lovely peek into a new place. Love all the detail of Verona. Ahh the list grows longer…….
Great photos. And we haven’t been there. But it sounds wonderful. It may be in our future. ‘Cause who doesn’t need a little romance in a 37-year marriage?
You’ve convinced me! And while I’m here, MERCI BEAUCOUP for the recipe for the chocolate coconut macaroons! They were a hit with everyone who shared them!
With the exception of exploring Guadaloupe last winter (Yes, it was super fabulous.), we tend to go back to our “old haunts”. The reason is that we have wonderful friends in these places—Northwest Iceland, Poitiers, Paris, Tuscany, etc. We miss them too much to not visit them. Usually we are able to visit a different historically significant or just flat out beautiful site or town close to where our friends live—locals make the best guides. This year we are lucky because one couple has moved from their home in the Île de France to the family chateau in the Pyrenees. While we’ve been to the Pyrenees several times before, you could spend an entire life exploring the area and not seeing all of it.
Great post. I really enjoyed it. As a part owner in a home in Chateauneuf-du-pape, I also recommend Chocolaterie Castelain. They have fun, informative classes in pairing wine with chocolate or making the chocolate.
I am ready to pack my bags and Bill. Looks like a dream! Thanks Lynn!
I adore everything about Italy but I’ve not been to Verona. Looks like I’ve been missing out on something quite fabulous. Beautiful & inspirational photos Lynn. Thank you for such a romantic post.
Charleston, S.C is a wine destination. Lettie Teague, in the Wall Street Journal.
Here is the link. https://www.wsj.com/articles/why-wine-lovers-are-flocking-to-charleston-s-c-1518721913
There may be a pay wall.
Lynn,we haven’t been to Verona in years.Thank you for renewing this glorious enjoyment, even if just the arm chair variety!
Such wonderful pictures!
(Hoodwinked????? Naaah!!!)
Oh!Aida has such a special place in our hearts!
We had been visiting our belle mere and pere in Belgrade.Decided to have a holiday in Vienna.It was(I believe) our 22nd anniversary.
They told us tickets would be available,and,!alas!They were not.
My loving husband somehow procured them for us(scalpers is indeed the right word) and we spent the most incredible evening at the Staats Opera savoring this magic.
31 years later,still remembering!
LOVED YOUR HOODWINKING METHOD!!! And that you went to Aida even if no elephants as in Rome at times. Loved the whole article and we, who celebrated 37 years on Valentine’s, will certainly take it with us when we next hit Verona. I think I can lure my honey with a Roma/Verona soccer match! Heh, heh. But I’m a fan, too, so we’ll both have a ball, so to speak.
Oh so lovely to be swept back to lovely Verona by your photos and words! I look forward to returning!