Food writer Ann Mah wrote an article recently, about the classic French dinner party–which is typically a four-course, sit-down affair–being turned upside down. She talks about the new popularity of the apéro dînatoire in France. In the states it's common, we call it "heavy hor d'oeuvres", meaning a cocktail party that can count as dinner instead of just nibbles. But she's talking about doing the equivalent of heavy hors d'oeuvres for a more intimate group, with folks eating on their laps on the nearest chair.
I don't know where she's been eating lately, probably Paris. Though she says it's a trend from city to province, the fad certainly hasn't gotten to our coin of Burgundy yet. That's not to say I don't know the whole drill. We've been to dînatoires in France over the years, here and there, there are appropriate occasions for them. But not many. Folks here stick to the ritual courses and dine à table. And it's very hard to imagine the French eating with their fingers, or heaven forbid abandoning the table to lounge on the couch and munch.
But we can learn a bit from the model that Ann describes, since the French have of course put their own spin on it. It's like a cocktail party, but in the French way they don't bring everything out at once. In other words, it's finger food but they serve it in courses. Hmm, done this way I'm not sure it's that much easier to pull together than a French dinner party! Still, it's a nice casual way to entertain if you've got a crowd and/or you've got kids running about. You can have a big enough spread so you don't have to worry about someone's dietary restrictions, and if you add an easy cheese course, it will have a French feel.
Ann Mah finds it's easier because you can serve mostly store-bought, prepared stuff. I personally love to serve fresh food, and cook for the people I love, but then again I'm retired, so I have the luxury of time. On the other hand, if you're "noshing", there are plenty of prepared foods that you can just open or assemble: olives, radishes, jarred roasted red peppers, smoked salmon, charcuterie. Then round it out with a homemade treat or two.
Our beloved next-door neighbors, who are Dutch and French, lapse into the dînatoire thing often, just with the four of us. They invite us over for a drink, and bring out some lovely nibbles. Later, some more serious nibbles appear. Then there's cheese, then we decide to have some ice cream, and before you know it it's bedtime, dinner is done, there are a few more bottles in the bin. And a fine time was had by all.
I'm interested to hear from ex-pats in other areas. Do you know the trend, have you tried it? We always love entertaining tips!
NEXT TIME: Great dînatoire recipes from my neighbor Marion.
Favorite READS: Speaking of food and entertaining, thank you so much Natalia for your recommendation for Ruth Reichl's Save me the Plums. This food writer and former editor of the dearly departed Gourmet Magazine is one of my heros. I can't wait to read it. And Libby, I too am in the middle of Je t'aime à La Folie, Micheal Wright's sequel to C'est La Folie, which I blogged about recently, and I'm loving it.
8 thoughts on “French Dining, “Bouleversé””
My last dinner party in France at the home of a friend began with charcuiterie in amazing abundance and variety and with two wines to go with it. This went on for about an hour and I was pretty full from sampling the Sarthoise things on offer. I thought dinner was over, but then the main course appeared. I nearly fainted, but pressed on for another hour and two more wines. The, of course was a dessert and two more wines followed by a liquer which may or may not have been rocket fuel. Oh, yes I forgot the cheeses. I was happy that we were guest of the dinner host and only had to0 make it upstairs to bed. I can’t imagine how I could have gotten anywhere after all that.
I’ve been in France ten years, and have hosted this type of “apero dinatoire” to great success. However, my guests are often expats from various European countries and they don’t seem at all surprised by it. We sit outside on a covered terrace/summer kitchen with little tables about to hold the goodies. The French people present always take it in stride, and in fact I have only been to a few dinners, usually hosted by older people, that go through all the formal courses at a table. As a Californian, I also do BBQ for groups of friends, we can each cook our chosen food as we like it, I always have an assortment of meat and poultry there to choose. A European friend is having a *really big* birthday party next month, 40+ people, and she’s having a “mechoui” done by a caterer who specializes in North African food. There will be tables for those who want them, but I think many people will sit and eat from their laps!
bonnie in provence
I have been to countless French dinner parties but never a dînatoire. It’s typical to have a “dînatoire” type apero chez our friends who live near Poitiers with drinks, chacuterie, and other munchies followed by an elaborate lunch in their garden. They would never skip the lunch, cheese and dessert courses even though, after the delicious “aperos”, I am quite satisfied and ready for a swim in their pool.
This looks so appetizing, Lynn ! It certainly is less work than having to prepare a 3 or 4-course meal for guests but I still think it’s so much nicer to sit round a table to eat rather than having to balance a plate on your lap while holding a fork in one hand (unless one uses one’s fingers) and a glass in the other hand.
This is what we have experienced on the Côte d’Azure. Friends gather on a terrace for an apero which morphs into a impromptu meal with a combination of prepared and easily put together dishes, including bbq at times. The first time this happened I had to check the definition of “apero” after we staggered home at 11:00 pm! I’ve never heard of it referred to as an apero dinatoire, but that’s certainly what they are.
We’ve enjoyed several Aperitif Dinatoires with friends in Aix, both at their homes and ours. I do feel,though, that sometimes creating all of those tasty and varied nibbles can be more work than making a multi course meal!
Dear Lynn,they say you eat with your eyes,and WOW!!Those gorgeous hors d’oeuvres are making my mouth water! Yum!
Now absolutely looking forward to Marion’s dinatoire receipes!
Thank you both!
We had relatives in (then)Yugoslavia(now Serbia) and enjoyed very similar type of entertaining.One popular way of doing things was to put the “goodies” on a large table,beautifully arranged(bien sur!),a runner underneath,complete with assorted beverages,and pretty napkins.
i really liked having the cooking and prep all done beforehand so we could be free to chat with guests and enjoy.
Thank you for the Wright book recommendation. A delightful human and a droll writer.