We have a whole new city to explore, and here is one of our best serendipitous experiences so far. We were a block from home the other night after dinner, walking past the tall bell tower at the Place Monge, when it lit up like a Christmas tree. Clock faces appeared on the building, zooming quickly up to the roof. What was going on?
It turns out we had happened across one of an installation of seven amazing light shows, called Beaune’s Trail of Light, or Les Chemins de Lumières. They project what you might call "light videos" on iconic Beaune sites, and they give a visual the history of the town, building, or site. The colors and themes wash across the face of the building, leaping and dancing and flowing.
There’s no explanation of the displays on site; we pick info up from the locals or as we learn about Beaune’s rich history. The bell tower display, which lasts about 10 minutes, starts by showing the construction of the tower, bit by bit. then the inside stairway is revealed, with a ball of light bouncing down. Twirling clock faces zoom up the building, followed by the inner workings of clocks. Then, in the show’s most popular moment, a cat climbs out of a window and starts chasing a ball of light around the tower (I don’t know how they do it, but it looks amazingly real).
The clocks are meant to show the acceleration of time, we later discovered, and by googling the name of a nearby statue, I discovered the cat (below) is a reference to an early film by E. J. Marey, a Beaunoise chronophotographer who was a pioneer of modern cinema.
Now we’re trying to catch one each evening. At the St-Etienne Chapel (below), the lights pay homage to Louis XIV, the Sun king, who visited Beaune. The formal garden cycles through four seasons during the show. There is also an installation at the famous Hotel Dieu, and a couple of them are projected onto the ramparts of the city.
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The Collégiale Notre-Dame is particularly spectacular. Here it is in the daytime, followed by its noctural transformation:
The wine museum is fun, with knights prancing across its balcony.
If you visit, check the tourism website before you go. They are only on display in the summer, on certain holidays, and at Christmas, and they don't start until 10. Being French, they run a little late. They repeat with only a few minutes between shows, so you can catch several–or all–in one night. Bring your camera!
In the COMMENTS: Suzanne, good question about the tomato pie: juicy tomatoes are always a problem. I put them on a rack and salt them, then leave them for an hour. The I squeeze or press any liquid I can out of them. For my traditional tomato pie, I used to put a crust on the bottom, but even pre-baked it was soggy. Now I put it on the top. I still drain the liquid off and let it set a bit before I cut it. I didn't have the problem with Bruno's recipe. Martin: that's too funny! Be careful, too, with Rome, Georgia and Florence, South Carolina.
FAVORITE READS: Our loyal reader and favorite artist Colleen Taylor has published a children's book with friends–and you won't believe how beautiful it is! It's called The Cat, The Fiddle, and Me: A Magical Songbook Journey. It's very unique, it's arranged to a poetic song. Perfect for your kids or grandkids–or for you, it's a tale for all ages. You can buy it here and get all the info here, at her blog.
Something EXTRA for you today: if you come to Beaune, I have the inside scoop on where to stay! Our new great friend François owns a perfectly located, perfectly decorated little flat which is just right for two. It has a salon with big sunny windows, a kitchenette, one bedroom, and a small but luxurious bath–for half the price of what you would pay for a Beaune hotel. And it's so chic! Contact him directly for a good price at francoisrroux@yahoo.com. Photos below!
11 thoughts on “Beaune Lights Up the Night”
So enchanting!
And that flat looks perfect.
Thank you!
Beautiful photos, Lynn. So glad we got to see most of it. The two Collégiale photos are especially stunning. And, off coarse, I love the Bell Tower and the cat. Happy to know the meaning of it.
Serendipitous, indeed! You got some great pictures! And that flat looks wonderful! I want to do some research on E.J. Marey. He sounds like the ideal subject for a children’s picture book!
Oh my goodness Lynn, I was so thrilled to see our book featured here today. Thank you for posting this. We’ve been fortunate to have had more sales than we imagined already. It is greatly appreciated, even more than you know. You are most generous & we are indeed humbled.
Beaune looks like a must see on anyone’s list to see. You are so fortunate to be living there. That clock bell tower is beyond fascinating. What a fabulous place to visit. Thank you for the reference of François flat, a perfect spot to stay.
We first encountered a show like this at Chartres about fifteen years ago and we were amazed. Bourges has a trail of blue lanterns which you follow from location to location , some of which have light shows inside their courtyards. Blois also has a son et lumiere inside the chateau wall which tells the history of the area with narration. It is done in English a few days a week. The art and technology that goes into these displays is awesome. Thanks for sharing this one. We have always like Beaune. This is a good reason to return.
Lynn, have you read any of Laura Bradley’s books about her time flipping houses in Beaune? They’re called the Grape series. I think there are 5 of them. Bill’s ancestors are from Beaune so I appreciate your tips as we’d like to go there one day. Thanks, Sue Wallace
Lynn, sorry, I meant to say Laura Bradbury. Old age! Sue
Lynn,this is incredible ,and wow!Totally captures my imagination!
Thank you for sharing these gorgeous pictures with us!
Thank you,too,for telling us about Colleen’s charming book(!)
AND Francois’lovely flat!
You hopelessly spoil us,Lynn.Every post never fails to be something wonderful,and something to look forward to.
THANK YOU!
Thank you Natalia for viewing the book. Warms my heart to hear your comment. Lynn is just the best!
I love the book, and am considering buying it and putting it away as an early Christmas gift for a little boy who will be about 1 1/2 then. And the apartment? Geez, I’d like to move right in. Lynn, I am glad to know that I am not the only one who has made a soggy tomato pie. I’ll have to try again soon. Would puff pastry work for the crust?
Love seeing you and Ron are excited and discovering so many new delights! We missed seeing you this summer
and will leave Provence soon for 2 weeks in Italy and Greece! It has been an amazing summer! And we have about
200 signatures on our petition to save the Cafe!! A bientot! Buzz,a,