Memories of a French Country Road


I recently read The Only Street in Paris, which is a memoir of life on one street. A whole book about one street!

Which got me thinking about the street in our former village of La Vineuse, where we lived for 13 years. (we moved to Beaune 2 years ago).

Such memories of that village road! Maybe not book-worthy, but for a tiny rural rue in "centre village" (our village had 20-ish houses, a church and a one-room schoolhouse), I certainly have some wonderful souvenirs, that lovely word for memories or remembrance in French. The road was a carrrefour, or crossroad, where 2 rural roads came together, and it was a delicious little slice of French life.

Let me set the stage for you: The village was high on the crest of a hill, with houses and gardens falling off to either side. In the center, across from our house and barn (above), was a sort of island with a phone booth and a cherry tree; and beyond that, the romanesque church. Two roads crossed there, And a third was a tiny impasse (a dead end lane) that split off in front of house and barn. Lunching on our galerie, we could see up to hill to the road and the heart of the village.

Looking up to the road, from our galerie

The last remaining phone booth in France?

 

Here were some common sights on our road, all photos taken within a hundred yards of our house:

–Traffic. At 7 am and 7 pm, coinciding with the church bells, the two farmers in town passed by with their big tractors, one new and a bright green, the other a  vintage red one. Other than that, mostly the cars of the locals occasionally passed by.


 

–Horseback riders, in groups of 4 or 5, out for a saunter.

Riders pass by our gate

–Pompiers, on national veterans holidays, proudly parading to honor the war dead.


 

–Cows. When they moved the cows from one field to another, they often drove them through town. I was once startled by a couple of them who nearly ran me down as I was coming out of my gate.

–Car rallies passed often. Beautiful vintage cars, one after the other, passing through town on a group Sunday drive.  

 

Packs of neighbors, who pass each other on the crest of the hill on their walks, and cluster together like birds, for a good gossip.

–The floats that the villagers made annually for the charity drive.


 

–Hikers, hearty and sportive, and always swinging their Nordic walking poles.

–At least once a day, a UPS or Amazon truck, at a dead stop on the crest, the driver desperately seeking directions. There were no street names or numbers in the village, or in the surrounding hamlets.

–A mini transhumance: herds of sheep being moved on their annual journey up the hill.

 

–Weddings. Bridal parties would walk together from the mayor's office, where they signed the official papers, to the church for the ceremonly. Oh the fancy hats and frocks we saw!

A wedding limo, all gussied up

 

I have lovely memories of the cherry tree  just outside our gate,and my visiting grandchildren heading out several times a day to gorge themselves on fresh cherries.Then there was the goodbye party for the phone booth, when they hauled it away. With our neighbors, we set up a "café" on its former site on the island in the middle of the intersection, and drank wine until the moon rose. I will always remember fondly the worn path between our house and our beloved nextdoor neighbors' house, which I  usually walked at least a couple of times a day.

Overhanging our litte impasse, the laden cherry tree

 

The new La Vineuse "café", where the phone booth used to be

 Unlike the street in the Paris book, it wasn't a busy road packed with shopkeepers and apartments and lots of action. But it was a road of souvenirs just the same, and that road will travel with me always.

 


Au revoir to our beloved La Vineuse

 

In the COMMENTS: Susan, those are some spoiled chickens! Ian, that lasagne idea, which I want to try, is worthy of starting from scratch. Anne, I would be happy to be in the company of any good Cajun cook. Lee, I love the pickle juice idea. Colleen, wishing you bonne santé. Julie, we are all crossing our fingers that you can get back to France, it's been too long. Natalia, do look for that cookbook–I think the Germans make wonderful salads. And do check out Martin's Austrian recipe. By the way, we were in a very off-the-beaten path rural French bistro last week, and ran right into our loyal reader  and frequent commenter  Martin, and his wife Helen, from England. Comme le monde est petit! It was a great pleasure to see you both.

Favorite READS: I have an interesting read for you this week!! Gervais Hagerty, who grew up in Charleston, has written a novel about the city, In Polite Company. It's an inside look at the blueblooded society that hangs out at the yacht club and dances at the Cotillion balls–and she is both loving and critical at the same time, of this privileged group. It's a great and fun read, if you have any connection to this beautiful historic city, or would like to. Or if you're just looking for a good book!

 

 

 

 

30 thoughts on “Memories of a French Country Road”

  1. Lynn,you have once again totally captured my imagination with today’s post!Not to even mention being accompanied by such fantastic photos!Wow!! Does OH LA LA!!!! sound perfect? Please know that all of us arm chair travelers are now drifting off to nirvana!
    Also appreciate the wonderful book suggestions( I am looking forward to enjoying!)
    And!Speaking of wonderful books, Emily Dilling’s gorgeous “My Paris Market Cookbook” (a copy of which I am very privileged to own,thanks to you,Lynn,and also to Emily!) has been selected as a favorite book by Rebecca Plotnick in her blog,”Everyday Parisian”. So very well deserved!Every recipe is a keeper!!!

  2. Lynn,you have once again totally captured my imagination with today’s post!Not to even mention being accompanied by such fantastic photos!Wow!! Does OH LA LA!!!! sound perfect? Please know that all of us arm chair travelers are now drifting off to nirvana!
    Also appreciate the wonderful book suggestions( I am looking forward to enjoying!)
    And!Speaking of wonderful books, Emily Dilling’s gorgeous “My Paris Market Cookbook” (a copy of which I am very privileged to own,thanks to you,Lynn,and also to Emily!) has been selected as a favorite book by Rebecca Plotnick in her blog,”Everyday Parisian”. So very well deserved!Every recipe is a keeper!!!

  3. Lynn,you have once again totally captured my imagination with today’s post!Not to even mention being accompanied by such fantastic photos!Wow!! Does OH LA LA!!!! sound perfect? Please know that all of us arm chair travelers are now drifting off to nirvana!
    Also appreciate the wonderful book suggestions( I am looking forward to enjoying!)
    And!Speaking of wonderful books, Emily Dilling’s gorgeous “My Paris Market Cookbook” (a copy of which I am very privileged to own,thanks to you,Lynn,and also to Emily!) has been selected as a favorite book by Rebecca Plotnick in her blog,”Everyday Parisian”. So very well deserved!Every recipe is a keeper!!!

  4. Bonnie Groves Poppe

    What a great little hameau, love the sheep. Here near Carpentras we had a couple of hundred come through, with 3 dogs and several goats, pausing in the vines to do some cleanup. They had to have come on several rather big roads, I think. One of my favorite French roadsigns is a triangle with a drawing of a sheep, and the word “troopeau”. Beware of the sheep …..
    bonnie in provence

  5. Bonnie Groves Poppe

    What a great little hameau, love the sheep. Here near Carpentras we had a couple of hundred come through, with 3 dogs and several goats, pausing in the vines to do some cleanup. They had to have come on several rather big roads, I think. One of my favorite French roadsigns is a triangle with a drawing of a sheep, and the word “troopeau”. Beware of the sheep …..
    bonnie in provence

  6. Bonnie Groves Poppe

    What a great little hameau, love the sheep. Here near Carpentras we had a couple of hundred come through, with 3 dogs and several goats, pausing in the vines to do some cleanup. They had to have come on several rather big roads, I think. One of my favorite French roadsigns is a triangle with a drawing of a sheep, and the word “troopeau”. Beware of the sheep …..
    bonnie in provence

  7. Thanks for this story of your street. I know I’ve taken a gazillion photos of my street in Dijon, but I’ve been very remiss about recording the ebb and flow in words. I’ll start when I get back there.

  8. Thanks for this story of your street. I know I’ve taken a gazillion photos of my street in Dijon, but I’ve been very remiss about recording the ebb and flow in words. I’ll start when I get back there.

  9. Thanks for this story of your street. I know I’ve taken a gazillion photos of my street in Dijon, but I’ve been very remiss about recording the ebb and flow in words. I’ll start when I get back there.

  10. Your petit village, Vineuse, looks and sounds absolutely magical in your lovely photos, and equally lovely words. Merci beaucoup for a look at a lifestyle that many, or most, of us have never experienced. Thanks for the info on the book too. Charleston is a place that I missed on a vacation when unluckily I contracted strep throat. Savannah is another. I did get to Savannah, but have always regretted the missed opportunity to see Charleston. Southern Fried French always brightens my inbox, but even more so in “the age of Covid,” because I am mostly holed up at home. At least I live in beautiful Old Louisville. Stay safe en France…Suzanne

  11. Your petit village, Vineuse, looks and sounds absolutely magical in your lovely photos, and equally lovely words. Merci beaucoup for a look at a lifestyle that many, or most, of us have never experienced. Thanks for the info on the book too. Charleston is a place that I missed on a vacation when unluckily I contracted strep throat. Savannah is another. I did get to Savannah, but have always regretted the missed opportunity to see Charleston. Southern Fried French always brightens my inbox, but even more so in “the age of Covid,” because I am mostly holed up at home. At least I live in beautiful Old Louisville. Stay safe en France…Suzanne

  12. Your petit village, Vineuse, looks and sounds absolutely magical in your lovely photos, and equally lovely words. Merci beaucoup for a look at a lifestyle that many, or most, of us have never experienced. Thanks for the info on the book too. Charleston is a place that I missed on a vacation when unluckily I contracted strep throat. Savannah is another. I did get to Savannah, but have always regretted the missed opportunity to see Charleston. Southern Fried French always brightens my inbox, but even more so in “the age of Covid,” because I am mostly holed up at home. At least I live in beautiful Old Louisville. Stay safe en France…Suzanne

  13. Chérie, how many times did I park my old Toyota outside that gate? Thanks for sharing your loving souvenirs of your delightful village. Our time there with you and Ron, Jean Marie and Marion are set in the happiest parts of our minds!!! Love, M and A

  14. Chérie, how many times did I park my old Toyota outside that gate? Thanks for sharing your loving souvenirs of your delightful village. Our time there with you and Ron, Jean Marie and Marion are set in the happiest parts of our minds!!! Love, M and A

  15. Chérie, how many times did I park my old Toyota outside that gate? Thanks for sharing your loving souvenirs of your delightful village. Our time there with you and Ron, Jean Marie and Marion are set in the happiest parts of our minds!!! Love, M and A

  16. Was it all a dream?? I hope not! I need to get back to see for myself. I also have those lovely memories. Miss you. Ali

  17. Was it all a dream?? I hope not! I need to get back to see for myself. I also have those lovely memories. Miss you. Ali

  18. Was it all a dream?? I hope not! I need to get back to see for myself. I also have those lovely memories. Miss you. Ali

  19. Connie Rice Allen

    Oh Lynn, thanks for sharing the photos of your beautiful village! We were so fortunate to have some time there with you and Ron. I loved seeing the picture of Gerard, Marja, Marion and Jean Marie. I think of Marion often when I look at the painting she did for me which Bruce bought as a wedding anniversary gift when we were there last. I sure do miss being there and having such wonderful times with everyone.

  20. Connie Rice Allen

    Oh Lynn, thanks for sharing the photos of your beautiful village! We were so fortunate to have some time there with you and Ron. I loved seeing the picture of Gerard, Marja, Marion and Jean Marie. I think of Marion often when I look at the painting she did for me which Bruce bought as a wedding anniversary gift when we were there last. I sure do miss being there and having such wonderful times with everyone.

  21. Connie Rice Allen

    Oh Lynn, thanks for sharing the photos of your beautiful village! We were so fortunate to have some time there with you and Ron. I loved seeing the picture of Gerard, Marja, Marion and Jean Marie. I think of Marion often when I look at the painting she did for me which Bruce bought as a wedding anniversary gift when we were there last. I sure do miss being there and having such wonderful times with everyone.

  22. Claudia Sansone

    Dearest Lynn,
    I am sitting in our home in Livingston, Montana with 6 inches of snow. I am green with envy of your choice of life. I only pray that one day we can be back in wonderful France.
    I love your French words of wisdom.
    Big hugs,
    Cluadia

  23. Claudia Sansone

    Dearest Lynn,
    I am sitting in our home in Livingston, Montana with 6 inches of snow. I am green with envy of your choice of life. I only pray that one day we can be back in wonderful France.
    I love your French words of wisdom.
    Big hugs,
    Cluadia

  24. Claudia Sansone

    Dearest Lynn,
    I am sitting in our home in Livingston, Montana with 6 inches of snow. I am green with envy of your choice of life. I only pray that one day we can be back in wonderful France.
    I love your French words of wisdom.
    Big hugs,
    Cluadia

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