The Most Popular French Dish You’ve Never Had

 

This lovely French watercolor is by Tom Veith, who lives in the Dordogne. His work is available at http://www.thomasvieth.com

 I read an article in the Local (French news in English) that named the number one French take-out dish during the pandemic (as measured by the biggest food delivery service in France). Can you guess? I would have guessed pizza. Or coq au vin maybe. 

Can you guess the answer? I never would have in a million years. There's a clue in the painting above.

Drum roll: l’Oeuf Mayonnaise.

Now I’ve lived in France almost 19 years, and I’ve never made or been served eggs with mayonnaise. I don’t even remember seeing it on menus. I was vaguely aware of it as French comfort food, something that didn’t look particularly enticing. But apparently it’s a classic that’s made a big comeback. Or maybe it's just a Parisian thing.

For the uninitiated, this dish consists of a boiled egg, something between soft and hard boiled, with a jammy yolk. The  egg is covered with mayo (traditionally it is totally covered, sort of glazed), then topped with chives. Or, if you want to get creative, top it with bacon bits, caviar, etc.

So, I did a deep dive into French recipes for this king of take-outs. Lots of opinions on this one! Even people who don’t like either eggs or mayonnaise are said to be captivated by this simple dish. Since mayo is mostly made of eggs, it’s basically eggs on eggs. Or as my husband describes it: egg salad, without stirring it.

Some chefs wax poetic about how perfectly the egg must be cooked, exactly how you must make the mayo, etc. The very famous chef Joel Robuchon, however, suggests you just plop down a scoop of store-bought mayo on a boiled egg. I think even we can improve on that.

Homemade mayo seems compulsory here, and of course it’s easy to make. I bought pasteurized eggs for mine, to avoid the salmonella problem. If you've never made homemade mayo, you are in for a treat! I don't actually like regular mayo, not my choice for a sandwich. But homemade? I could eat it with a spoon. It's great on everything.

As to boiling an egg so it will peel easily, that is one of the great dilemmas of cooking. In the past I’ve tried a dozen methods, and only one has worked, and it works well most of the time. Boil water over medium heat, put the eggs in a steamer basket over the water and cover, and steam them for 12 minutes, for hard boiled. For this recipe, I did 8 minutes, which was about right.

And the result? The mayo was great. The combo was…well, uninspiring, to both the testers in my household. Let us know what you think. But I am going to roast some asparagus tonight, to dip into that yummy mayo!

 

RECIPE: L’oeuf Mayonnaise

Boil eggs so that the yolk stays jammy, by steaming them over gently boiling water for about 8 minutes. Plunge in ice water briefly, then peel. Leave them whole or cut in half.

Put eggs on a plate and glaze with homemade mayonnaise (I just plopped it on, as my mayo turned out very thick). Top with snipped chives, or other toppings as desired.

For the mayonnaise:

  • 1 pasteurized egg, plus 1 yolk
  • 1.5  tablespoons of lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon dijon mustard
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon sugar
  • a dash of black pepper and cayenne
  • 1 cup oil (I used half canola and half olive oil)
  • Optional: add fresh herbs if you like, or stir in minced shallots at the end.

Add all ingredients except oil to a blender, mix until well blended. Then add the oil in a slow steady stream. It's delicious as a salad dressing, a dip for vegetables, or to top sliced tomatoes. Or eggs!

 

Favorite READS: Does everyone know Henri, le Chat Noir? If not, you really must meet him. He is quite the French (and Anglo) celebrity, and although I've read his little book over and over (it lives in my powder room), it never fails to crack me up. Henri is a cat with existential angst, in the French manner. He is also a youtube star,  and you can get started on his videos here.

And our reader Anne Marie recommends Perestroika In Paris for animal lovers. That would be me! Here is a review of Jane Smiley's book at NPR.

 

 

36 thoughts on “The Most Popular French Dish You’ve Never Had”

  1. Martin Withington

    Eggs mayonnaise used to be a very popular starter here in the U.K. but it’s rather fallen out of fashion. We still occasionally have it for lunch. A classic English variation on the theme. Is the egg and cress sandwich. Boil the eggs, let them cool and then mash them coarsely with a fork. Mix with mayonnaise and cress and use as the filling for sandwiches. Delicious!

  2. Martin Withington

    Eggs mayonnaise used to be a very popular starter here in the U.K. but it’s rather fallen out of fashion. We still occasionally have it for lunch. A classic English variation on the theme. Is the egg and cress sandwich. Boil the eggs, let them cool and then mash them coarsely with a fork. Mix with mayonnaise and cress and use as the filling for sandwiches. Delicious!

  3. Martin Withington

    Eggs mayonnaise used to be a very popular starter here in the U.K. but it’s rather fallen out of fashion. We still occasionally have it for lunch. A classic English variation on the theme. Is the egg and cress sandwich. Boil the eggs, let them cool and then mash them coarsely with a fork. Mix with mayonnaise and cress and use as the filling for sandwiches. Delicious!

  4. Jane Williamson

    We often have egg mayonnaise sandwiches for supper.
    Either in a take and bake baguette, or if Jim has baked a loaf in new bread.
    I find it surprising that mayonnaise is not used more in French sandwiches.
    They are dry and boring compared to their English counterparts.
    A Marks and Spencer pack of three different fillings is super and I am sure that even French folk would appreciate them.

  5. Jane Williamson

    We often have egg mayonnaise sandwiches for supper.
    Either in a take and bake baguette, or if Jim has baked a loaf in new bread.
    I find it surprising that mayonnaise is not used more in French sandwiches.
    They are dry and boring compared to their English counterparts.
    A Marks and Spencer pack of three different fillings is super and I am sure that even French folk would appreciate them.

  6. Jane Williamson

    We often have egg mayonnaise sandwiches for supper.
    Either in a take and bake baguette, or if Jim has baked a loaf in new bread.
    I find it surprising that mayonnaise is not used more in French sandwiches.
    They are dry and boring compared to their English counterparts.
    A Marks and Spencer pack of three different fillings is super and I am sure that even French folk would appreciate them.

  7. Oh my gosh. During the Paleo craze, I found a recommendation for topping a hard-boiled egg with homemade mayonnaise and chives and thought, “huh, that’s not much different than egg salad or deviled eggs, just kind of deconstructed…” Once you have this as snack; you can’t forget about it. 🙂

  8. Oh my gosh. During the Paleo craze, I found a recommendation for topping a hard-boiled egg with homemade mayonnaise and chives and thought, “huh, that’s not much different than egg salad or deviled eggs, just kind of deconstructed…” Once you have this as snack; you can’t forget about it. 🙂

  9. Oh my gosh. During the Paleo craze, I found a recommendation for topping a hard-boiled egg with homemade mayonnaise and chives and thought, “huh, that’s not much different than egg salad or deviled eggs, just kind of deconstructed…” Once you have this as snack; you can’t forget about it. 🙂

  10. Christine Webb-Curtis

    Eggs are my go-to comfort food. And I started making homemade mayonnaise when I was in the Peace Corps in Chile back in 1969-70 as we had no refrigeration; so if I wanted it, I had to make it. There’s nothing quite like it. If I were doing take-out in France during the pandemic (I wish!), I certainly would have asked for l’Oeuf Mayonnaise for sure.

  11. Christine Webb-Curtis

    Eggs are my go-to comfort food. And I started making homemade mayonnaise when I was in the Peace Corps in Chile back in 1969-70 as we had no refrigeration; so if I wanted it, I had to make it. There’s nothing quite like it. If I were doing take-out in France during the pandemic (I wish!), I certainly would have asked for l’Oeuf Mayonnaise for sure.

  12. Christine Webb-Curtis

    Eggs are my go-to comfort food. And I started making homemade mayonnaise when I was in the Peace Corps in Chile back in 1969-70 as we had no refrigeration; so if I wanted it, I had to make it. There’s nothing quite like it. If I were doing take-out in France during the pandemic (I wish!), I certainly would have asked for l’Oeuf Mayonnaise for sure.

  13. Lynn, thank you for this mayo recipe(huge fan! And which gives me a hankering to make it again) (also for the wonderful book selections!)
    I remember having eggs mayo when we lived in Montreal years ago, and quite honestly, didn’t give me inspiration to revisit them again in our own kitchen.Like you,though, the mayo is a different story.Nothing short of sublime!!! Yum!!
    Have a book suggestion for this time: The Paris Secret” By Natasha Lester.She wrote both The Paris Orphan,which I haven’t read yet, and The Paris Seamstress,which I have.She tells a great story and this one with Dior clothes and friendship during the war, does not disappoint.

  14. Lynn, thank you for this mayo recipe(huge fan! And which gives me a hankering to make it again) (also for the wonderful book selections!)
    I remember having eggs mayo when we lived in Montreal years ago, and quite honestly, didn’t give me inspiration to revisit them again in our own kitchen.Like you,though, the mayo is a different story.Nothing short of sublime!!! Yum!!
    Have a book suggestion for this time: The Paris Secret” By Natasha Lester.She wrote both The Paris Orphan,which I haven’t read yet, and The Paris Seamstress,which I have.She tells a great story and this one with Dior clothes and friendship during the war, does not disappoint.

  15. Lynn, thank you for this mayo recipe(huge fan! And which gives me a hankering to make it again) (also for the wonderful book selections!)
    I remember having eggs mayo when we lived in Montreal years ago, and quite honestly, didn’t give me inspiration to revisit them again in our own kitchen.Like you,though, the mayo is a different story.Nothing short of sublime!!! Yum!!
    Have a book suggestion for this time: The Paris Secret” By Natasha Lester.She wrote both The Paris Orphan,which I haven’t read yet, and The Paris Seamstress,which I have.She tells a great story and this one with Dior clothes and friendship during the war, does not disappoint.

  16. My first trip to Paris in 1961 introduced me to l’Oeuf mayonnaise and I was hooked; never having had homemade mayo, this dish in a tiny French bistro was a revelation to me. Fast forward many years when my husband and I were traveling in France and I introduced him to this delight. He is a mayo lover and this dish was nirvana to him. He insisted we go to the gourmet shop Fauchon where he bought a case of mayo – much to the amazement of the vendeuse. He lugged the heavy box on the plane and hardly could wait to taste the mayo once again. Surprise! It was regular factory-made mayonnaise and not as good as Best Foods. I never have tried to reproduce French mayo, preferring to keep the lovely memory of it for whenever we’re in France.

  17. My first trip to Paris in 1961 introduced me to l’Oeuf mayonnaise and I was hooked; never having had homemade mayo, this dish in a tiny French bistro was a revelation to me. Fast forward many years when my husband and I were traveling in France and I introduced him to this delight. He is a mayo lover and this dish was nirvana to him. He insisted we go to the gourmet shop Fauchon where he bought a case of mayo – much to the amazement of the vendeuse. He lugged the heavy box on the plane and hardly could wait to taste the mayo once again. Surprise! It was regular factory-made mayonnaise and not as good as Best Foods. I never have tried to reproduce French mayo, preferring to keep the lovely memory of it for whenever we’re in France.

  18. My first trip to Paris in 1961 introduced me to l’Oeuf mayonnaise and I was hooked; never having had homemade mayo, this dish in a tiny French bistro was a revelation to me. Fast forward many years when my husband and I were traveling in France and I introduced him to this delight. He is a mayo lover and this dish was nirvana to him. He insisted we go to the gourmet shop Fauchon where he bought a case of mayo – much to the amazement of the vendeuse. He lugged the heavy box on the plane and hardly could wait to taste the mayo once again. Surprise! It was regular factory-made mayonnaise and not as good as Best Foods. I never have tried to reproduce French mayo, preferring to keep the lovely memory of it for whenever we’re in France.

  19. Recommended read: THE ART OF LOSING by Alice Zeniter, a historical account of what it’s like to be Algerian in France, and more. A look at the events that unfolded in Algeria and how french attitudes aren’t necessarily what we think they are.

  20. Recommended read: THE ART OF LOSING by Alice Zeniter, a historical account of what it’s like to be Algerian in France, and more. A look at the events that unfolded in Algeria and how french attitudes aren’t necessarily what we think they are.

  21. Recommended read: THE ART OF LOSING by Alice Zeniter, a historical account of what it’s like to be Algerian in France, and more. A look at the events that unfolded in Algeria and how french attitudes aren’t necessarily what we think they are.

  22. Way to make me dream about Spring. A couple of flocks of crane flew over yesterday so even though the groundhog doesn’t think so we are well on our way here. Thank you for the shout out!

  23. Way to make me dream about Spring. A couple of flocks of crane flew over yesterday so even though the groundhog doesn’t think so we are well on our way here. Thank you for the shout out!

  24. Way to make me dream about Spring. A couple of flocks of crane flew over yesterday so even though the groundhog doesn’t think so we are well on our way here. Thank you for the shout out!

  25. Bonnie Groves Poppe

    Closest thing I ever had to this is oeufs mimosa, which are devilled eggs, made with aoili (homemade garlic mayo) and usually anchovies. I could eat the entire dozen. However, like you, not a fan of mayo from a jar. My money is still on pizza, everytime I was out I saw people with towers of pizza boxes …… also cheaper than mayo eggs.
    bonnie in provence

  26. Bonnie Groves Poppe

    Closest thing I ever had to this is oeufs mimosa, which are devilled eggs, made with aoili (homemade garlic mayo) and usually anchovies. I could eat the entire dozen. However, like you, not a fan of mayo from a jar. My money is still on pizza, everytime I was out I saw people with towers of pizza boxes …… also cheaper than mayo eggs.
    bonnie in provence

  27. Bonnie Groves Poppe

    Closest thing I ever had to this is oeufs mimosa, which are devilled eggs, made with aoili (homemade garlic mayo) and usually anchovies. I could eat the entire dozen. However, like you, not a fan of mayo from a jar. My money is still on pizza, everytime I was out I saw people with towers of pizza boxes …… also cheaper than mayo eggs.
    bonnie in provence

  28. I agree< i had never heard of it. But, we do love eggs en Murette! I had read it in other articles. Thanks for taking the mystery out of it. It doesn't seem like it is stunning?!? oH, well, must try when we get back home.

  29. I agree< i had never heard of it. But, we do love eggs en Murette! I had read it in other articles. Thanks for taking the mystery out of it. It doesn't seem like it is stunning?!? oH, well, must try when we get back home.

  30. I agree< i had never heard of it. But, we do love eggs en Murette! I had read it in other articles. Thanks for taking the mystery out of it. It doesn't seem like it is stunning?!? oH, well, must try when we get back home.

Leave a Reply

Get Southern Fried French's weekly email.

Pages

Archives

Most Popular Tags

Below, books by our readers (and me), plus some other francophile fun:

Discover more from Southern Fried French

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading