Early on when I first met our beloved châtelaine, Nicole, she told me a story about her long-ago youth, about a tradition très charmant that is uniquely French. It began in the early 18th century but faded away in the mid-20th.
Every summer, she said, little rustic cabarets would spring up on the banks of the rivers (you are never far from a river in France). On sultry summer nights, you would put on your Sunday best: flowered dresses and pumps for les femmes, suspenders and bow ties and straw hats for les hommes. And you would dine and dance the night away in the moonlight by the water. It was a bal-musette, which is a fête consisting of folk dances done to accordion music.
This was a sort of outdoor pop-up night club, and the clubs were called guinguettes (say 'gang-get' fast, and you'll be close). Renoir (above photo) and Van Gogh both captured guinguette moments in their paintings. The French are nostalgic for these halcyon days, and nowadays on riverbanks in the cities you will often find brasseries styled in the romantic guinguette fashion.
This past summer we were invited by French friends to a real live guinguette, a pop-up pique nique and bal-musette by the river at the Château Sainte Sabine.
Ron donned a straw hat and a tie (we couldn't find suspenders), I put on a summer frock and off we went on our guinguette adventure, to immerse ourselves in some serious French nostalgie.
I hope they will do it again next year. See you there?
In the COMMENTS: Laura, what a story about your wine tour. That's what I like about visiting wineries, you never know what you will find. We haven't been there, putting it on our list. Ellen, bisous to ma belle, the beautiful Belle Ly. Natalia, a traveling cat is indeed pénible, but it's so nice to be together, as you say.
Favorite READS and VIEWS: Natalia's recommendation this week is a page-turner: The Women, by Kristin Hannah, about the brave nurses who served in Vietnam.
And if you need something fun to watch, I have ideas this week! All in French, all sub-titled and great for practicing your French (if you can listen and read at the same time! I still lean on those sub-titles a bit). At the theaters, we enjoyed The Taste of Things, a visually lush culinary romance. And if you're a foodie, do not miss the documentary Menu-Plaisir, les Troisgros. For four hours they follow a very famous French chef with three restaurants, one of which is a 3-star (we've been to two, which we can recommend). It's streaming on PBS. We are also really loving a series called Murder in… (in France, it's Crime En…). Each self-contained episode (with different actors) is a romance/mystery set in some beautiful locale in France. There are several seasons, so you get a real tour of the country! It's on MHZ.
18 thoughts on “What in the World is a Guinguette?”
I have been to quite a few of these, both here in Provence and in the Herault as well. They are usually professionally operated, not as a one-off by an organization, and they are open all summer. The food is often quite good and of course the atmosphere is special. I have yet to encounter one with live music, but I’m sure they exist if you look. I like them very much!
bonnie in provence
I have been to quite a few of these, both here in Provence and in the Herault as well. They are usually professionally operated, not as a one-off by an organization, and they are open all summer. The food is often quite good and of course the atmosphere is special. I have yet to encounter one with live music, but I’m sure they exist if you look. I like them very much!
bonnie in provence
I have been to quite a few of these, both here in Provence and in the Herault as well. They are usually professionally operated, not as a one-off by an organization, and they are open all summer. The food is often quite good and of course the atmosphere is special. I have yet to encounter one with live music, but I’m sure they exist if you look. I like them very much!
bonnie in provence
The Fete du Pain in Cours les Barres was our favorite day when traveling the canals by boat. We just happened upon the bread festival, organized by the town on election Sunday. The men of town cooked the loaves in the old wood fired community bread oven. There were local sales, demonstrations, a car show, and a dinner fund raiser. When looking on the web, I see that there are local dates as well as the yearly one in May in front of Notre Dame in Paris. Much fun!
The Fete du Pain in Cours les Barres was our favorite day when traveling the canals by boat. We just happened upon the bread festival, organized by the town on election Sunday. The men of town cooked the loaves in the old wood fired community bread oven. There were local sales, demonstrations, a car show, and a dinner fund raiser. When looking on the web, I see that there are local dates as well as the yearly one in May in front of Notre Dame in Paris. Much fun!
The Fete du Pain in Cours les Barres was our favorite day when traveling the canals by boat. We just happened upon the bread festival, organized by the town on election Sunday. The men of town cooked the loaves in the old wood fired community bread oven. There were local sales, demonstrations, a car show, and a dinner fund raiser. When looking on the web, I see that there are local dates as well as the yearly one in May in front of Notre Dame in Paris. Much fun!
Another TV recommendation is “Astrid” streaming on PBS Passport. In French, with subtitles.
Another TV recommendation is “Astrid” streaming on PBS Passport. In French, with subtitles.
Another TV recommendation is “Astrid” streaming on PBS Passport. In French, with subtitles.
Lynn,you always take us to such magical places ,and ,wow!Today is at the top of the list!
Totally charmante,totally FUN(!) and totally captures my imagination!Particularly for donning such colorful outfits to complete the celebrations!
I also very much enjoyed the book and film ideas,which I am on the way to checking out asap!
Thank you! I just can’t stop smiling!
My book suggestion this time is a coffee table volume that I was gifted with:”Extraordinary Collections” featuring designer/illustrator Martin Montagut,and the truly incredible whimisical collections in his home and Parisian boutique.Page after page of glorious pictures,featuring more collectibles than I could imagine.Hard to put down!
Lynn,you always take us to such magical places ,and ,wow!Today is at the top of the list!
Totally charmante,totally FUN(!) and totally captures my imagination!Particularly for donning such colorful outfits to complete the celebrations!
I also very much enjoyed the book and film ideas,which I am on the way to checking out asap!
Thank you! I just can’t stop smiling!
My book suggestion this time is a coffee table volume that I was gifted with:”Extraordinary Collections” featuring designer/illustrator Martin Montagut,and the truly incredible whimisical collections in his home and Parisian boutique.Page after page of glorious pictures,featuring more collectibles than I could imagine.Hard to put down!
Lynn,you always take us to such magical places ,and ,wow!Today is at the top of the list!
Totally charmante,totally FUN(!) and totally captures my imagination!Particularly for donning such colorful outfits to complete the celebrations!
I also very much enjoyed the book and film ideas,which I am on the way to checking out asap!
Thank you! I just can’t stop smiling!
My book suggestion this time is a coffee table volume that I was gifted with:”Extraordinary Collections” featuring designer/illustrator Martin Montagut,and the truly incredible whimisical collections in his home and Parisian boutique.Page after page of glorious pictures,featuring more collectibles than I could imagine.Hard to put down!
Stayed in Château Ste-Sabine in 2010 before rénovation. A huge window looked over the lake, park and animals (deer). Tiny, sweet village.
Across the autoroute is Châteaufeuf, perched high on cliffs, another discovered treasure.
Guinguettes on River Orne at Clécy in Swisse Normande was a delightful, fun surprise.
Stayed in Château Ste-Sabine in 2010 before rénovation. A huge window looked over the lake, park and animals (deer). Tiny, sweet village.
Across the autoroute is Châteaufeuf, perched high on cliffs, another discovered treasure.
Guinguettes on River Orne at Clécy in Swisse Normande was a delightful, fun surprise.
Stayed in Château Ste-Sabine in 2010 before rénovation. A huge window looked over the lake, park and animals (deer). Tiny, sweet village.
Across the autoroute is Châteaufeuf, perched high on cliffs, another discovered treasure.
Guinguettes on River Orne at Clécy in Swisse Normande was a delightful, fun surprise.
Charming ! Would love to this en Provence! ⭕️
Charming ! Would love to this en Provence! ⭕️
Charming ! Would love to this en Provence! ⭕️