Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask and he'll tell you the truth.
Oscar Wilde
Venice, that most romantic and watery of cities, has been on my mind since my sister, Peggy, who is an artist, headed for Ravenna for a mosaic class last month, and decided to swing by Venice for her first visit there.
Peggy became fascinated by the masks that are sold in so many artisanal stores in Venice, as I was on my first trip to Venice—in fact I stuffed my suitcase with them and brought them home (she did too). The hand-made masks are donned for the annual Carnevale di Venezia–and my sister happened to catch the first day of that as well.
The masks are such a great metaphor for the city: full of mystery and intrigue, ornate and beautiful, lovingly crafted. With a mask at Carnevale you can re-invent yourself, become anyone you like, be enigmatic.
The Venetian Carnevale has a long colorful history, dating from the 1100’s, and has always included masks, though no one is sure why. The craft of making them, from glass, leather, porcelain, or gesso, is quite special, and Venetian mask makers have always enjoyed a special status. Masks have played a role in Venetian history and politics (worn to cast anonymous votes at public meetings, for example), and have even been banned from time to time. They were particularly handy for a romantic tryst, or for committing a crime.
My sister snapped lots of mask shots on her trip, which she has kindly shared with us.
Above: This Italian gentleman, gearing up for the Carnival, is wearing a common type of mask with a beak-ish nose called a Medico Della Peste. Historically this was worn by physicians treating patients with the plaque, and was thought to give the doctors protection.
Embellished masks on display. The cat mask in the uppper left hand corner is called a gnaga, and is traditionally worn by men in drag.
Artists use molds like these to make masks. These molds are for a particular type of mask called a bauta. It features a jutting chin which allows you to drink and eat with the mask, thus hiding your true identity all the day long.
The new generation: modern masks in the hip steampunk style.
Big Bird, with attitude.
All photos by Peggy McBride
In the COMMENTS: Natalia, lobster benedict, what a concept! Christine's polenta sounds pretty great too. Suzanne, I agree and one of these days I'm going to break down and buy one of those Egg Poacher
Favorite Reads: Speaking of food (comme d'habitude), Kiki has a great cookbook and more for us to read, a most unusual book by a chef who is also a priest, called The Supper of the Lamb: A Culinary Reflection. Merci for the recommendation, Kiki. To learn more about the city of Venice, try Thomas Madden's Venice: A New History
This just in! Francophile alert: Beloved author and blogger Kristin Espinasse's new book is out, First French Essais: Venturing into Writing, Marriage, and France
13 thoughts on “The Mysteries of Venice, Unmasked”
Hi Lynn. We also bought masks in Venice, even one that looks like Bob Hope in silver face paint. But my real question concerns that mosaic class in Ravenna. Any idea where I could find more information? Thanks for your great blog. It’s always a pleasure to see it arrive in my mailbox!
Beautiful and interesting mask designs – going to masked balls is indeed fun!
There’s a great book about contemporary Venice called “City of Falling Angels” I forget the author’s name but he’s the same guy who wrote “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”. I listened to the Venice book on CD while driving around the state. It really made the miles disappear.
When you are in Paris, there is a fabulous mask shop on Rue Saint Louis, down at the end, near the bridge that goes over to Notre Dame. Amazing to look at!
How lovely the variety of gorgeous masks from Venice. Such fun!
Thanks and have a fabulous time.
These masks are indeed works of art. I’ve never been to Venice but I have seen some of these masks displayed on walls of clients. Thank you for such a lovely post Lynn.
I love the book, A Venetian Affair: A True Tale of Forbidden Love in the 18th Century by Andrea di Robilant. The author takes the story from decaying love letters he found in his ancestral home in Venice. The spy movie, “A Venetian Affair” refers to an entirely different affair.
Hi Lynn,
You find the most fantastic places(!) and today’s with all those colorful masks in Venice is only made better by Peggy’s wonderful pictures!(Also liked the quote by Oscar Wilde!)
The idea of MAKING time to have fun is so appealing,especially is today’s rush-rush existence.
You’ve once again given us inspiration to just take some time out, enjoy the sights,and(!)enjoy the day!
THANK YOU!!!
Thanks to your sister for sharing her photographs. Right now my husband and I are trying to plan a future trip that will finally get us to Italy. I want Florence (near Cinque Terre) and he wants Venice. Choices, choices.
Loved your Venezia post – one of my favorite cities to visit when I traveled. It brought back great memories. Thanks!
I also bought a mask in Venice last time, for my daughter. But I also thought that there were so many mask shops. I spoke to a Venetian who told me that many little shops, like butcher shops, bakeries, closed and were opened for tourists as mask shop – many Venetians are leaving Venice unfortunately. We had a hard time finding a grocery store.
You can fit all three into a 12 day journey – fly into Venice, take high-speed train to Florence – then train over to Cinque Terre. Return to Florence the night before you head home. We are doing this at the end of April for a reunion event in Florence
Saw so many of these masks in Venice, brings back beautiful memories. Especially i like these steampunk style face masks, masterpieces handmade by Ca’ Macana Atelier. The workshop that produces many of Venice’s famous carnival masks.