Our Italian neighbors in the village have a big cherry tree, and all the lower limbs hang out over the lane. Since the Italians don’t arrive until July, all that luscious fruit is ripe for the taking.
The minute some of the cherries ripen, they seem to vanish mysteriously. We actually have permission to pick them, unlike most folks passing by, but we have to sneak out early and pluck the ripe ones daily, if we are to get any at all. They are, it seems, irresistible for hungry thieves.
Les cerises grow well here, so there is an abundance of cherry dishes on local tables at the moment. The French like to make clafouti with their cherries, which is a sort of custardy-cake with whole cherries (here is Julia Childs’ recipe). But the French often do something that we would consider bizarre: they leave the pits in. They believe that baking them with the pits retains more of the flavor. But at a dinner party, when everyone is struggling with the cherry pits in their dessert, it seems a bit awkward.
The best thing they make here with cherries is cerises à l’alcool. Basically this is cherries soaked in a clear alcohol; they use the local eau de vie or Marc de Bourgogne (translation: moonshine), but vodka will do. When you have your café after a meal, you serve it with a couple of the drunken cherries on the side, and the combination is delicious. I found a recipe in English, and photo at right, at Brooklyn Homesteader.
Tonight I will make a local favorite, duck in cherry sauce. David Tanis had a recipe in the New York Times this week which he says is easy enough for a week-night, we'll see!
The other day I scored a big bowl of cherries from the Italians' tree, and I was casting about for something to make. About the only thing I had on hand was condensed milk and some marscapone cheese, so in about five minutes I whipped up a no-bake dessert that was surprisingly tasty.
Please do share any good cherry recipes you have, there is still some fruit on that Italian tree!
RECIPE: Frozen Cherry-Chocolate Bars
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter and stir it into 1 cup of cookie crumbs (I used speculos crumbs, which are cinnamon shortbread cookies, but chocolate cookies or graham crackers will work, or any crunchy cookie). Press the mixture into a 9” square pan.
Meanwhile melt 8 oz. (200 grams) semi-sweet chocolate over hot, not boiling water, then set aside to cool slightly.
With an electric mixer, beat 1 can of sweetened condensed milk (14 oz, 400 gr) with 1 lb. (500 gr) marscapone cheese and a teaspoon of vanilla. Taste for sweetness; add a squeeze of lemon juice for tartness if you like. Fold in a cup (or more!) of cherries, pitted. Carefully spoon mixture over the crust and smooth it out.
Drizzle the chocolate evenly over the top of the cheese mixture, and spread it out evenly. Freeze until firm and cut into bars.
In the COMMENTS: Natalia has done us one better with the pot pie, using lobster–c'est chic. Jan, (of the Speaking of France blog–Jan has a daughter in France), tomato tarts are a French classic, and I'll be making them as soon as those first tomatos arrive.
And folks are still contributing expressions from the blog two weeks before (just scroll down), so check back again, especially to read the comment by Rachel (of And Then Make Soup), who shares some Texas expressions. Love 'em, Chickenlips!
From our friends at European Market, you'll find some cool Father's Day gifts from Europe, for your Europhile dad (is there such a word?).
10 thoughts on “Life is Just a Bowl of “Cerises””
Ok, Lynn. I need to try this while I’m here in Burgundy. I have some questions, though.
– Is there a particular kind of cherry I should look for in the market?
– Can I really buy semi-sweet chocolate in the supermarché? What’s it called?
– What is condensed milk called in France and is it sold with the rest of the milk?
– Is marscapone cheese found in the regular cheese section of the supermarché?
Sorry for all the questions. At home I’d whip this up in a second, but I’m baffled by ingredients that sound so “American.”
Hi Julie,
I think any kind of fresh sweet cherry will do. I use Nestle noir dessert chocolate, which is sort of like Baker’s semi-sweet in the states, but better. Just any ‘cooking’ chocolate will do, it will say ‘dessert’ on the label. Condensed milk in my supermarché isin the section with the flour and sugar. Lait sucré condensé I think, it’s the same stuff, same sized can. The marscapone comes in little plastic tubs, 250gr, you’ll find it in the Italian packaged cheese section with the packaged mozzarella, the feta, stuff like that. Happy cooking!
Looks yummy and have wonderful to have a cherry tree for the pickins’!
I like my cherries “nude” and unadorned. I would pass by those luscious cherries hanging within reach and look longingly and with envy at whoever (you, Lynn, in this case) had the pleasure of picking them with impunity. As a child we had a tree in our yard and it was a race against the birds to see who could pick more. I didn’t always win out. But it was worth the effort. Now, I buy them in the market and struggle against sitting with the colander in my lap eating the lot. Isn’t fruit just the bomb!
Chris
That’s such a beautiful photo of the cherry tree scene. How lucky to have access to that tree if you can beat people to the punch.
My mouth is literally watering at all these recipes Lynn. I’m definitely going to try these vodka cherries. Thank you! My mother used to do something quite similar with dried apricots. It was delicious but mighty potent to say the least.
Oh,Lynn,thank you!Summer is here and you’ve given us such a gift today:that gorgeous cherry tree and heavenly recipes to try! YUM!
What incentive!Espeially because we are just starting to get ripe cherries here in the Southwest.
My belle mere used to make (what is called) a ‘compote’ with cherries,apricots,plums–just about any ripe fruit.(best if it’s like your cherries,home grown).Basically putting the fruit in a pot on the stove,filled with a solution of water and sugar to make a light syrup.Bring to a slow boil,turn off heat and cover.When cool place in clean jars(what a silly thing to say!as opposed to what?dirty jars???) with a tight fitting lid.
They would have fruit all Winter.Could be eaten as is,or used in pastries.
Here’s one that I like. My French friends grow eating (sweet) cherries and what they called “bird” cherries, the little sour ones. That’s what I used to make this. They were astonished as they just grow the sour cherries for the birds to eat!
You can cook the cherries then pour them into a baking dish and add the topping and bake. Mmmm… but yes, mind the pits. Seems even with pitted cherries one or two escape!!!
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SOUR CHERRY COBBLER
4 cups sour cherries
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
zest of that same lemon, chopped or grated fine
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into bits
Working over a bowl, pit the cherries. Discard the pits. Reserve the cherries and any juices in the bowl, and into the cherries stir the cornstarch, 2/3 cup of the sugar, the lemon juice, vanilla extract, and zest.
In a separate small bowl stir or whisk together the flour, the baking powder, the salt, the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Cut in the butter, and blend the mixture until it resembles coarse meal, then stir in 1/4 cup boiling water, stirring until the batter is just combined.
In an 8-inch cast-iron skillet or flameproof baking dish bring the cherry mixture to a boil, drop the batter by heaping tablespoons onto it, and bake the cobbler in the middle of a preheated 350°F. oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the top is golden. Serve warm or at room temperature for best flavor. Ice cream optional, of course… mmmm…
Here in Wisconsin I make my clafouti with famous Door County cherries. Door County is that thumb sticking into lake Michigan which has a microclimate mild enough for cherry orchards. It is one of the few places in the US that was settled by Icelandic immigrants. The cherries are sold pitted unless you travel to Door County and “pick your own”. They make a delicious dessert–a family favorite.
Delightful post, Lynn! I love the photos. And I must try the vodka cherries. We had a cherry tree in our yard years ago and had to get up early to beat the birds to the cherries. They seemed to know the exact moment when the fruit had reached perfection. I adore cherries and chocolate together but am also a fan of cherry pie, cherry cobbler, and cherry crisp. I have been making a lot of crisps lately because they are quick and easy to assemble. I made one using white nectarines and blueberries that was a big hit!
Oh my I have to get crack’n and use up the cherries in the fridge – and what a delicious recipe to use! Thank you Lynn.