When we were living in the château and looking for a house to buy, one of our criteria was to live near a town with all the practical commerce we needed. Tournus, Macon, Chalon-sur-Sâone, and Cluny, each within a half hour or so of the château, were all contenders. As time went on we were increasingly drawn to the small town of Cluny, with its history that has made it internationally famous, its medieval streets, and the liveliest Saturday market around. We were lucky enough to buy a house just 10 minutes away. If you’re touring Burgundy, you may want to put Cluny on your list. Photo: You can get a panoramic view of Cluny by climbing the Tour de Frommage, by the tourist office.
Americans often don’t know the town, but nearly every European will be familiar with Cluny. In the 10th through the12th centuries, Cluny was the seat of the wealthiest and most powerful monastery in Europe, its priories stretching across the continent. The grand abbey church was the largest in existence, until St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican was completed (a mere meter longer!).In later centuries the abbots’ power began to slip. Sadly, during the French revolution, the church was mostly destroyed, its stone sold to local farmers. (We think the big, beautiful cut stone floors in our barn are likely from the abbey). But one of the main towers and some of the smaller buildings remain, and they are quite interesting to tour. Photo right: The abbey tower.
Cluny has other claims to fame as well. Summer week-ends you will see the equine set here, the riders dressed in their finery and parading their elegant horses around. A Jack Russell trotting alongside is a necessary accessory. Cluny has an equestrian tradition: the national stud farm where Napoleon trained his horses is in Cluny, and is still in use and open for tours. Many equine events and competitions are held here, and there is an important collection of old carriages.
But who are those young people, sporting long gray cotton coats which are individually decorated in a collage of colorful grafitti-esque motifs? Those would be the students of the Arts et Métiers, an engineering school which is a branch of the grand école in Paris and is housed in the cloister of the abbey.
Then there is the fun Saturday market, which attracts shoppers from miles around. We have “our table” on the terrace of the bar in the center of the market square, where folks from our village and other friends gather at a long table for a café or a chocolat chaud, and often linger into lunch.
All of this makes for a pretty perky little town. So if you’re in the neighborhood on a Saturday, do stop by—you’ll find us at the Bar du Nord, we’ll be that big, noisy table of locals, having a fine time!
You won't pass through Cluny without seeing a horse. This traveler is watering his ride in a fountain on the main street.
One of Cluny's medieval lanes.
A student from the engineering school shows off his personalized jacket.
At a fête, one of the entrances to the walled city is decked out in pink. Below, The door to the mairie (mayor's office) in Cluny.
In the COMMENTS: Martin, we now know where the expression “a chicken in every pot” comes from. And it’s French! Julie, you discovered a winner, I’m always glad to hear they still exist. Natalia, I did just as you said this week, but with baked chicken breasts, and the potatoes roasted in that jus were wonderful—and I was a relaxed cook too!
Favorite READS: I met up with loyal reader, and author, Kim Defforge (of the 24/7 in France blog) in Nice last week. She has a new book out, a children's book starring her dog, Boulette Gets A Surprise
11 thoughts on “A Closer Look at the Town of Cluny”
Looks absolutely charming! (Thanks for mentioning my blog and books – it was great seeing you in Nice)
Lovely post Lynn; making me miss Burgundy.
Beautiful Lynn! Makes me want to go on another French Adventure to your neck of the woods. Always love your posts, by the way!!!
Beautiful! I’m hoping to visit in that area next year. I love markets so I’ll be sure to make it a Saturday!
I’m convinced about the charms of Cluny, thanks to you Lynn. I just realized (looking at the green hills beyond Cluny in your photos) that we were in Northern Burgundy a few years ago in an area where the hills, forests and sloping farm fields have much the same beauty. The region is called the Entremont. Rather too far, I suspect. Alas.
I think it’s time for to revisit your origin story. How you decided to move to France, how you scouted for your dream spot, how you found the chateau. It’s probably already on your site (I seem to recall reading it years ago). Might you highlight it or point to it?
We agree with you. We love Cluny, have been there several times. Recently we had a 3 day stay due to a cold my husband had. We had a lovely stay at Hotel de Bourgogne, run by Natalie and Michel Colin. You probably know them and the great cat Chipie
We love Cluny and look forward to our Saturday market and our coffee time with new and old friends.We take our Australian visitors and they all marvel at this beautiful and historic Town. Till next year Cluny. ..⛪️⛪️⛪️⛪️⛪️⛪️⛪️ 🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷
Lynn,what a beautiful post!The pictures just take me away!
It has been quite awhile since we visited Cluny and its beauty still captures my
imagination.(Thank you!)
Were you at the Bar du Nord when you wrote how Nicole had sold her chateau?
It was a wonderful photo of you in the square,writing SFF and enjoying a cup of chocolat chaud(I think..maybe it was cafe?)
That was a wonderful post,too! But then,they ALL are!!
Cluny looks like the perfect spot in France for a horse lover – moi. Peut-etre un jour.
Thank you for your beautiful pictures and interesting articles. I have never been to your area , would love to one day.
My adorable cousin, Anne, lives I Nice and introduced me to your site. Merci, Anne.
What a beautiful & charming town Lynn. I’ve heard of Cluny often & it looks & sounds delightful. Thank you for sharing this.