The title of this post doesn't refer to the sparkly spirit. No, it's a beginner's guide to the region where said boisson is made. We'd heard Champagne was pretty, but it was not high on our travel list until our friends Kent and Heather (French canal boat voyagers of the Unexcused Absenses blog) called us to say they were docked near Épernay, and we should come on up. Never ones to turn down a chance to visit with good friends in a great wine region, we hopped in the car and were off. And now, I'd like to recommend you move the Champagne region higher up on your French travel list as well. Photo above: the Hotel de Ville in Épernay. Below, the church on the main Place.
It turns out Épernay is the town of choice for exploring the region. I was shocked at how beautiful and sophisticated it was. Think of a very fancy Paris neighborhood, but more intimate.
Épernay is the seat of most of the big Champagne houses. And most of these are located on the Avenue de Champagne, which might also be called Château Row. The 'houses' are grand old ladies of a certain age, each more beautiful than the next. Add to that the fact that the town must spend at least half of their budget on flowers and parks, and you've got charm to spare.
Now about that Champagne: the historic Champagne houses there are actually working houses; the wine is made and stored there. There are underground tunnels running all through the town and beyond, and they are so long you can take a small train through the tunnels, to tour them.
Tasting wine everywhere in France is generally free, but not in Champagne. Tasting at the big houses can be pricey. Kent and Heather had discovered something fun, however. Each afternoon at the tourist office, there is a free tasting from a local vintner, often smaller producers. We tasted there and had a long chat with a young vigneron and his wife who were full of passion for their their wine. It was a great Champagne moment. Photo below: Heather, sipping a rosé Champagne at the tourisme.
If you go: The Champagne region is just over an hour and a half from Paris, so it's a great add-on for your next trip there. We ate at a restaurant we loved, called La Grillades Gourmande. Delicious, great service, and the 3 course menus started at 24 euros. We stayed in Les Berceaux, which I wouldn't call memorable but it was well located and perfectly nice, and reasonably priced. Keith and Heather also recommend a stop in the nearby town of Châlons-en-Champagne, known as the "sparkling Venice".
More posts coming up on the Champagne region, so stay tuned!
Photo below: a park in the center of town.
Kent and Ron are both tall, but no worries, this door on the Avenue de Champagne will work for them.
A Champagne House on the Avenue de Champagne.
Another house on the Avenue de Champagne. And the tractor? Someone has to take care of all those flowers!
And more flowers: on a round-about in Épernay.
In the COMMENTS: RE the post on "Caprese Plus", as Suzanne calls it, we have great recipe ideas from Paula and Martin, and from Steve on Facebook. Mary James, those balsamic pearls sound pretty wild, never heard of them!
Favorite Reads: My friend Ellen told me about Delicious!, a novel by Ruth Reichl (she's a famous food writer who was the editor of Gourmet), and I'm reading it now. Fun book for foodies!
11 thoughts on “Champagne 101”
We agree with your assessment of the Champagne Region. It is magnificent and very well worth a visit. I think driving through the vineyards at dusk is a memory I will always have. It is that great combination of sophistication in the cities and magnificent rolling countryside and beautiful villages and views, restaurants and hotels. I hope to return!
Several years ago you posted a recipe for gazpacho. I made it the day I read it and we loved it. Each summer when the heirloom tomatoes are ripe here in Asheville I keep some in the fridge all the time. Many thanks!
What a lovely eye-opening little tour of Epernay. We have just returned from Sicily which did the same thing, but not quite as flower-y and neat as your tour.
Still, incredible food, some of which is on Loulou.
Thank you for a great idea for our next Paris jaunt. And thank you for the mention of the blog. Wait a minute–it’s another Suzanne, right? Oops.
Your photo with the tractor and flowers looks like the orangerie of the Trianon, across the street from (and owned by) Moët & Chandon. I actually stayed there for a week in 1976 while working on developing Domaine Chandon’s visitor program. The winery opened in 1977. Brings back fond memories, many captured in Bubbles to Boardrooms.
Now another place in France to add to my WANT TO VISIT list!!! And I LOVE champagne. Too bad it is so expensive. Do you have a favorite that is reasonable, like $25 or less?
Have you heard of a French sparkling wine from the Loire Valley called La Taille aux Loups? I had some recently, and it is quite good, I think.
AND…a reason to drink more champagne: it improves memory! 🙂
Lynn,this beautiful post has just captured my imagination!
Thank you!
It has been years since we visited the Champagne region,and I had forgotten how gorgeous it is.
And! Of course,how wonderful is the champagne!
Here in the US,in Napa Valley(CA),Domaine Chandon produces an incredible DVX rose champagne whose taste totally takes me back.The scenery there is lovely,(but,alas,really is not the same as Epernay!)
So happy,too,to read of Ruth Reichl.How well I remember her from Gourmet!
What a fantastic magazine from days gone by!
We stayed at domaine Ployez-Jaquemart, a B & B champagne house in the village of Ludes between Reims and Epernay. Very lovely area.
It has been years since we were in Champagne, but we are hoping to go back next May. Loved reading about your experience. I would like to suggest a couple of books that I found interesting about the area. “Champagne” by Don and Petie Kladstrup, (they also wrote “Wine and War”) and “The Widow Clicquot” by Tilar J Mazzeo. I always enjoy your posts!
Hey Lynn. Thanks so much for this post and for taking us to the Champagne region through your pics and writing! Always look forward to your posts! And I just checked your book out on Amazon and look forward to ordering it!! Blessings from Charleston, Cate
Beautiful Lynn! Such a gorgeous area. Can you email me, I’ve lost your email! xo Lidy
It was so much fun sharing Champagne with you two! We were so delighted by your visit — it was a real treat. Thanks again for making the journey to visit us.