OK readers, time to vote: what’s your very favorite restaurant in France?
Sure, we could search under the starry skies of Michelin and find something wonderful, if we took out a loan. But our criteria for today shall be: great food and service of course, an authentic French ambiance, nice setting, good value, and pure fun to eat there. For both Ron and me, the answer is easy: Café de la Fontaine in La Turbie, perched high on the Côte d’Azur.
It’s not a fancy place, it’s a brasserie, but it has that typical Frenchiness about it: professional waiters in crisp white shirts and red aprons, the daily menu on a chalkboard, outdoor dining right on the sidewalk, with great people-watching. The clientele is mixed. On our last visit, at the table on one side of us was a German couple who arrived by vélo, sweating in their cycling gear; and behind us, a couple who arrived in a shiny black Porchse, looking every inch the stereotyped Riviera couple (him: older, white hair, sunglasses, cashmere sweater thrown around his neck, loafers and no socks. Her: much younger, bleached blond beach hair, limping along in tall platforms and expensive resort wear, big shades, big jewelry). And at the table right next to us, we ended up chatting with a charming French/Polish university professor.
And the food! The chef owns the fancy high-priced restaurant which is across the street, called Restaurant Jerome (at right). Dinner will set you back a few hundred euros, and we’re told it’s fantastic. But the same chef cooks here, and Sunday lunch is a pittance, compared to that. We often see waiters dashing back and forth across the street, carrying trays of desserts and such between the two establishments.
Recently we were in the south of France, and we headed there immediately. On the menu, which changes daily: homemade ravioli, with fresh baby spinach that has been lightly swirled in butter, topped with fresh tomato puree, which elicited absolute moans of pleasure from my husband. Then a sea bass, sautéed with capers and nestled in a beurre blanc. For dessert un fraisier, a strawberry cake.
Then there is the setting. La Turbie, something between une ville and un village and not a major Côte d’Azur tourist hub in spite of it’s considerable charm, is full of winding little lanes that make a great post-déjeuner stroll.
So—how about you, dear readers, what is your favorite restaurant in France? Or beyond! And we wont' limit you to just one.
Photo below: Wandering the village streets after lunch, we encountered the Grumpy Cat of La Turbie.
In the COMMENTS: Natalia, thanks for turning me on to Simone Beck's classic cookbook, New Menus from Simca's Cuisine
9 thoughts on “The Best Restaurant in France? Time to Vote!”
Lynn, what an impossible task for your loyal followers! I’d need to nominate as joint winners at least twenty places we know. All depends on the mood at the time, the weather, how hungry you’re feeling and a hundred other factors. Sorry but I’m going to have to abstain on this one.
We have 2 favorites but only one meets your criteria. That one is La Rapiere in Bayeux. Small, quaint with exceptional food. the lady that waited on us, Linda was the one of the owners. The other was her husband, Simon who was also the chef. She could not have been more charming and welcoming. We felt like we were dining with old friends. we both had some obviously very fresh and well prepared seafood. it was exceptional and not expensive. I highly recommend.
The other fit all of your criteria except one, price. I’m not saying it was expensive but we were there 5 years ago and I have only 2 payments left to pay off the meal! They are very proud of their 2 Michelin stars!! It was La Chevre D’or in Eze. The setting was looking out over the Med, the food, sea bass encrusted in salt prepared table side was spectacular, the wait staff remarkable and was it fun? Bill Joel was at the table next to us. Nice guy! Was it worth it? I’ll let you know after final payment!!
Maison Nicholas Flamel in Paris
Just for a mention, Cote Vermeille in Port-Vendres, where we have eaten for years and not once has the chef budged from quality and, thank heaven, simplicity. I write cookbooks, and I am a critical eater who loves a no-frills cook who makes lovely fresh ingredients sing on the plate. Wish this were a question about the best restaurant in Spain. Bonanova in Barcelona, hands down.
My dear mama and daddy treated us to a congratulatory engagement dinner at Lucas Carton Paris.(Oh!sublime quenelles!)(think it is still there).
Later(when newlywed finances kicked in),we could only treat ourselves for an occasional lunch at Le Berkley(several streets down from Guerlain,location requiring a compass).
(Went out of business and we were later told that they reopened)(not sure)
Their timbales were unreal,as were their( early French version of Eaton Mess)(meringue crunched up with whipped cream and berries)
Sigh.
Wish I could eat all of this now.
Lynn,thank you for mentioning my reference to Simca.
So hope her recipies will relight our desire for(dated?) cuisine.
I’m sorry that I don’t remember the name of the restaurant but it is in Tournus. It is Monty and Ali’s favorite restaurant there where we indulged in a feast not only in taste but a visual one as well. Love the picture by the way of Monty strolling along in such a pretty setting!
As mentioned above, this is an impossible task. But I’ll have to say three that come to mind include your Cafe de la Fontaine. When we ate there last, it was late in the season, so everyone was inside scrunched into the space in a way that was both crowded and familial. Food was perfect. Waiters moved about efficiently considering it was a Sunday afternoon when I believe the entire population of La Turbie was there. Memorable. The second is Cafe Serge in Carpentras where we’ve eaten twice only, but flawless meals with excellent wine and service. And the third is L’Indigo in Anglet facing the sea along with many other restaurants. We enjoyed several meals there and got to know the waiters, appreciated the recommendations and loved the food. While the area is designed to feed tourists and surfing enthusiasts, the food was of good quality. I hesitate to post this comment just thinking of all the other meals I’ve enjoyed in the hexagon–a remarkable Christmas Day dinner in St. Raphael, a delicious paella in Grimaud, and so many others. Good luck, Lynn. Not an easy job.
I’ve only been to France once, and the stay was in Paris only. I had lots of great food. The restaurant that stands out is Le Grand Courbet, which I believe is in the 1st. Later it was the restaurant made famous by Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton in “Something’s Got to Give.” We had the prix fixe dinner, which was 4 courses, appetizer, entree, wine and dessert, and it was all delicious, especially the lamb entree. Aside from the food, the server is what stands out in my memory. He was excellent, a master, and I tipped him accordingly, using the same standard that I use in the USA, when I’m especially pleased. As we were leaving, he followed us, politely saying to me, “Madame, C’est trop.” He was returning to me part of my tip, which he said was much too big. Can you imagine that happening in America?
Hi Lynn,
Just got back from France, and now I have to wait until October to try your recommendation for Cafe de la Fontaine! You might remember me…
You and your husband visited me at my apt in Villefranche sur mer several years ago.
The best restaurant is in Nice, France by the Port: Le Barque Bleue. I’ve been going there for 20 years. It never disappoints us.
Mark & Debby Woods