Newly hot and hip! The town the French want most to move to! Voted most beautiful city in the world! Suddenly Bordeaux is trending. Could it live up to its hype? We decided to find out, after the buzz grew so loud we couldn't ignore it.
We were in Bordeaux 20 years ago, but just overnight, as the start of a biking trip around the Dordogne. To be honest, it didn't make much of an impression and we could barely remember it. So off we went last week, to the other side of France, so we could bring you a report.
Part of what has made the newly polished Bordeaux pop is the addition of a new TGV line. Before, it was far from Paris, and no direct autoroute took you there. Now, it's 2 hours from Paris on the train. If you're headed for Paris, it's an easy addition to your trip.
So what did we think? Pretty darn fabulous. Bordeaux is perfectly sized to have a big-city feel while remaining walkable and intimate. But there are also quiet trams gliding down the main street, and you just hop on and off. It's been fluffed and buffed, with beautiful gardens, parks, and great restaurants and shopping. The architecture rivals Paris. There is the lively square with the Grand Théatre, the Place de la Bourse (stock market) on the River Garonne with its participatory "water mirror" (a light coating of water on the square, where a mist periodically rises up). There is the iconic Monument aux Girondins in an expansive park.
We couldn't resist the chance to eat at Gordon Ramsey's bistro, in a dazzling location right across from the Grand Théatre, with a super outdoor terrace. We also liked La Brasserie Bordelaise, a traditional sort of French bistro where we had our best meal of the trip.
And of course there is the wine! We went to their wonderful new wine museum, subject of a future post.
IF YOU GO: We found Bordeaux to be pricey. Especially the parking (four hours, on the street with a meter will set you back 30 euros). So get a hotel with parking or find a garage (30 euros per day). But avoid bringing a car if you can, you won't need it. For luxury at a relatively moderate price, with a great location, we recommend Hotel de Sèze. For restaurants, we liked the above mentioned ones and next trip we hope to eat at the fabulous Grand Théatre, at Le Quatrième Mur, where we stopped for a drink (elegant and surprisingly reasonable) and Le Gabriel Bistrot at the Bourse was also said to be great.
In the COMMENTS:If you liked the village names, don’t miss all the additions: our readers have lots of funny town names to share, in the France and in the States (Ian, I love “Bouzy”, in Champagne! And Suzanne, in addition to the elegant Paris, Texas, we have a Rome in Ga. and a Florence in SC). Ralphe, thanks for the interesting history of “vilains”.
9 thoughts on “Bodacious Bordeaux”
What has made the difference is the election of Alain Juppé as a Maire.
Before his election Bordeaux was a sleeping beauty.
He decided to make it the decent town it had always deserved to be.
The TGV only came a bit more than a year ago. Making it more accessible to the Bobos parisiens who decided it could be a cool place to live.
You’re absolutely right about Bordeaux. We were staying in St. Emilion a couple of years ago (well worth a visit too), and went on the train to Bordeaux for the day. Lovely city!
Lovely photos – I was just in Bordeaux last weekend for the first time & found it to be a beautiful, vibrant city!
Adding it to my travel list. Brad and I trade off between cities with Michelin restaurants and fine wine for him and small villages with geraniums and cows for me. It’s his turn next visit. However, I’m bummed to see that (in true French fashion) if I take the TGV from Dijon I have to pass through Paris AND change train stations. But it’s still faster than driving. Can’t get anywhere east or west in this country without going through Paris.
Lynn,thank you for this wonderful arm chair journey to Bordeaux(!!), complete with such wonderful pictures and suggestions!
Wow!
We haven’t been there in way over 40 years,and,like you,back then it really didn’t light any fires in our imaginations.
I enjoyed learning(from Nicole) that Maire Alain Juppe was responsible for waking up such a sleeping beauty!
We, too, were awestruck to see the changes when we returned to Bordeaux after a decade or so – it’s so pristine and user-friendly! Definitely a favorite of ours.
We haven’t been for a while, but we may return next month as we’re planning to spend time in the Dordogne. Thanks for the tip about parking because we would be arriving in a car. We might like to plan a little differently. I’m interested in the museum. My friend here in Sacramento visited last year and enjoyed it. The photos are impressive.
We’ve seen videos of Bordeaux on the river. When we were there the first time, the buildings along the banks were just beginning to be cleaned. Now they are sparkling.
Thanks, too, for all the restaurant recommendations.
Chris
I saw palm trees or Sago’s in the pic. What is the climate?
I’ve heard this before from someone but I can remember who told me. So great to know this Lynn. Lovely photos and I must check out the French bistro’s and the hotel links you so generously mentioned.