Ouvrier, n. m/f, -ière
1. worker 2. laborer 3. workman
I will tell you a secret about French life, which may be useful if you visit, and if you're hungry.
In French restaurants dans la campagne, there’s déjeuner, then there’s the Ouvrier Dejeuner. Lunch, and the working man’s lunch (I say "man", because there aren't a lot of female ouvriers). Ron figured this out when he noticed that all the little white camionettes (those cute white workers' trucks that are everywhere in France) tend to park at a single restaurant on particular days, and he’s been searching out ouvrier lunches ever since. And since he got his own camionette, he can play the game for real.
Here is how it works: the proper ouvrier restaurant is usually the one by the side of the road, in a small village or on a departmental road. And if you are looking for a bargain-priced, hearty lunch, just look for the camionettes. If one goes in dressed normally (that is, with clean clothes), as a couple or a family, one will be seated and given a menu in the cheerful, more polished room. But when an ouvrier walks in, in dirty jeans or the ubiquitous dark blue jumpsuit, he might be shown to a different table, perhaps in a back room, and he will eat a different meal—heartier and cheaper– than the “clean” guests will.
Ron and our châtelin Pierre, covered in dust and dirt from demolishing a ceiling in one of the barns, decided to try this out one day. Since Pierre rarely lunches out, this was new to him too. They were led past the white tablecloths where diners politely regarded their menus, to a back room with a communal table that had a large pitcher of red wine in the center. There were no choices, no menu handed out; lunch simply began arriving, in large portions, as the French flew as fast as the forks. First up, paté on a bed of lettuce with cornichons. Next came a steaming plate of chicken with potatoes and a vegetable. Wine and water were passed around the table from the communal carafes. Next, a huge plank with six or so cheeses was plunked down, with the hungry workers cutting off large slabs to go with their baguette. Time for dessert: crème caramel. Expresso followed. All this for the price of a pizza or a salad at a brasserie.
Another day our friend Ali, all cleaned up in her best jeans, joined Ron and the the boys for lunch after they completed a project at their house. They went to Buxy, where there is the side room for the ouvriers and the sunny room with the pastel tablecloths for the proper customers. Madame didn't want to let them in for the ouvrier lunch (no women allowed perhaps, or Ali was too clean?). "There is no choice on the menu," Madame said, "it’s for the workers." Ron, streaked with mud and sawdust, finally raised his arms and twirled around, to show off his dusty self, and they were admitted.
Ron and his friends who make up our handyman team will work for lunch, so I often fix them something chez nous, after a big project. A working man needs hearty fare, so here is an idea for a quick and filling déjeuner. Just add wine and cheese.
RECIPE: An (elegant!) Ouvrier's Lunch
I spotted these tarts at a French traiteur (the fancy gourmet take-out shops you see all around France), and I thought they were a great idea. They had simply heaped vegetables and/or meats onto puff pastry and topped them with fresh herbs or greens. I always seems to have some leftover veggies and bits of meat in the fridge, so I can make them with minimal effort, using ready-made puff pastry (in France, it's pâte feuilletée). Or you could sauté some mushrooms and onions for a filling, or roast some carrots and red peppers to top the pre-cooked pastry…endless possibilities! If you heat them up, dust them with some cheese first, or simply shower them with fresh herbs or arugula before serving.
In the COMMENTS: Francine, since that mosaic is in Menton, it may very well be Cocteau's work. It certainly looks like it. Colleen, we can't wait to see that children's book, keep us posted.
48 thoughts on “A Laborer’s Lunch, French Style”
I’ve not tried this. I know about the places with the blue and red circular signs, that they are lunch for workers, but have not gone into one. I can get pretty dirty gardening and doing bricolage, but not sure I would want to present myself in that condition! I really must try it some time.
bonnie in provence
I’ve not tried this. I know about the places with the blue and red circular signs, that they are lunch for workers, but have not gone into one. I can get pretty dirty gardening and doing bricolage, but not sure I would want to present myself in that condition! I really must try it some time.
bonnie in provence
I’ve not tried this. I know about the places with the blue and red circular signs, that they are lunch for workers, but have not gone into one. I can get pretty dirty gardening and doing bricolage, but not sure I would want to present myself in that condition! I really must try it some time.
bonnie in provence
We both love eating with the ouvriers too. A few years ago, we went to such a place but opted for once to eat in the smarter bit next door because there were a couple of things on the menu there which had taken our fancy.
It was a nice room, with starched white tablecloths and a vase of flowers on every table. We were the only ones in there but we could hear things getting more and more busy in the other room.
Eventually, the restaurateuse decided to let people who wanted the menu ouvrier into the fancier room.
But… before she let anyone sit down at a table to eat their cheaper meal, she removed both the tablecloth and the flowers and laid the bare table with paper table mats.
You gets what you pays for!
We both love eating with the ouvriers too. A few years ago, we went to such a place but opted for once to eat in the smarter bit next door because there were a couple of things on the menu there which had taken our fancy.
It was a nice room, with starched white tablecloths and a vase of flowers on every table. We were the only ones in there but we could hear things getting more and more busy in the other room.
Eventually, the restaurateuse decided to let people who wanted the menu ouvrier into the fancier room.
But… before she let anyone sit down at a table to eat their cheaper meal, she removed both the tablecloth and the flowers and laid the bare table with paper table mats.
You gets what you pays for!
We both love eating with the ouvriers too. A few years ago, we went to such a place but opted for once to eat in the smarter bit next door because there were a couple of things on the menu there which had taken our fancy.
It was a nice room, with starched white tablecloths and a vase of flowers on every table. We were the only ones in there but we could hear things getting more and more busy in the other room.
Eventually, the restaurateuse decided to let people who wanted the menu ouvrier into the fancier room.
But… before she let anyone sit down at a table to eat their cheaper meal, she removed both the tablecloth and the flowers and laid the bare table with paper table mats.
You gets what you pays for!
One of the best meals I ever had in France was when we were visiting Cognac with French friends. The proprietaire of our chambre d’hôte had been a patient of our friend, a surgeon who had saved her life. Consequently, she and her husband were more than happy to play tour guide around their beautiful region. Our lunch stop was a “restaurante ouvrier” where we sat in the back and had a meal much as you described.
One of the best meals I ever had in France was when we were visiting Cognac with French friends. The proprietaire of our chambre d’hôte had been a patient of our friend, a surgeon who had saved her life. Consequently, she and her husband were more than happy to play tour guide around their beautiful region. Our lunch stop was a “restaurante ouvrier” where we sat in the back and had a meal much as you described.
One of the best meals I ever had in France was when we were visiting Cognac with French friends. The proprietaire of our chambre d’hôte had been a patient of our friend, a surgeon who had saved her life. Consequently, she and her husband were more than happy to play tour guide around their beautiful region. Our lunch stop was a “restaurante ouvrier” where we sat in the back and had a meal much as you described.
We were living for several weeks on a Le Boat canal boat on the Loire a number of years ago. We tied up by a tiny village hoping for lunch. There was only one “camionette” in town and it had only 1 large room. The owner seated us at the front table, and apologized profusely that there was no menu. Then she commenced to bring us all the courses you described above. Needless to say we had been lazing down the canal, so there was way too much food! My husband mentioned when she brought dessert that it was my birthday. Before you knew it, she and the whole room of “ouvriers” broke into “joyeux anniversaire”. It was one of my most memorable ones. We waddled back to the small boat and took a loooong afternoon nap!
We were living for several weeks on a Le Boat canal boat on the Loire a number of years ago. We tied up by a tiny village hoping for lunch. There was only one “camionette” in town and it had only 1 large room. The owner seated us at the front table, and apologized profusely that there was no menu. Then she commenced to bring us all the courses you described above. Needless to say we had been lazing down the canal, so there was way too much food! My husband mentioned when she brought dessert that it was my birthday. Before you knew it, she and the whole room of “ouvriers” broke into “joyeux anniversaire”. It was one of my most memorable ones. We waddled back to the small boat and took a loooong afternoon nap!
We were living for several weeks on a Le Boat canal boat on the Loire a number of years ago. We tied up by a tiny village hoping for lunch. There was only one “camionette” in town and it had only 1 large room. The owner seated us at the front table, and apologized profusely that there was no menu. Then she commenced to bring us all the courses you described above. Needless to say we had been lazing down the canal, so there was way too much food! My husband mentioned when she brought dessert that it was my birthday. Before you knew it, she and the whole room of “ouvriers” broke into “joyeux anniversaire”. It was one of my most memorable ones. We waddled back to the small boat and took a loooong afternoon nap!
Great and true story Lynn. Several times Ron, Pete and myself entered a restaurant at lunch time and wanted to eat with the ouvrîeres and most of the time we were accepted in and loved everything there. However, a couple of times, as is common in Burgundy, the protein was organ meat and with a happy heart we stepped into the nicer room for our lunch.
Great and true story Lynn. Several times Ron, Pete and myself entered a restaurant at lunch time and wanted to eat with the ouvrîeres and most of the time we were accepted in and loved everything there. However, a couple of times, as is common in Burgundy, the protein was organ meat and with a happy heart we stepped into the nicer room for our lunch.
Great and true story Lynn. Several times Ron, Pete and myself entered a restaurant at lunch time and wanted to eat with the ouvrîeres and most of the time we were accepted in and loved everything there. However, a couple of times, as is common in Burgundy, the protein was organ meat and with a happy heart we stepped into the nicer room for our lunch.
I’m amazed as I’ve never heard of this or even noticed it while living in France. Just goes to show, you learn something new every day!
I’m amazed as I’ve never heard of this or even noticed it while living in France. Just goes to show, you learn something new every day!
I’m amazed as I’ve never heard of this or even noticed it while living in France. Just goes to show, you learn something new every day!
Hello Lynn,
I remember a blog you posted several years ago that led us to watch out for restaurants with camionettes outside to indicate a good place to eat. Today’s post is a different nuance on that information. Anything helps. Of course, in all my meals in France, I can probably count on one hand those that were truly below par. I am rarely disappointed–regardless of the presence of the camionettes.
We have postponed our trip (postponed from 2020) to France with our youngest and his fiancee–regrettably–as a result of the combination of COVID and the tragedy in Ukraine. My husband and I still plan to make the trip in September for much longer. And hopefully next spring, we can try again with the younger set.
I hope you are well regardless of the side of the ocean you are on. Bon courage either way.
Chris
Hello Lynn,
I remember a blog you posted several years ago that led us to watch out for restaurants with camionettes outside to indicate a good place to eat. Today’s post is a different nuance on that information. Anything helps. Of course, in all my meals in France, I can probably count on one hand those that were truly below par. I am rarely disappointed–regardless of the presence of the camionettes.
We have postponed our trip (postponed from 2020) to France with our youngest and his fiancee–regrettably–as a result of the combination of COVID and the tragedy in Ukraine. My husband and I still plan to make the trip in September for much longer. And hopefully next spring, we can try again with the younger set.
I hope you are well regardless of the side of the ocean you are on. Bon courage either way.
Chris
Hello Lynn,
I remember a blog you posted several years ago that led us to watch out for restaurants with camionettes outside to indicate a good place to eat. Today’s post is a different nuance on that information. Anything helps. Of course, in all my meals in France, I can probably count on one hand those that were truly below par. I am rarely disappointed–regardless of the presence of the camionettes.
We have postponed our trip (postponed from 2020) to France with our youngest and his fiancee–regrettably–as a result of the combination of COVID and the tragedy in Ukraine. My husband and I still plan to make the trip in September for much longer. And hopefully next spring, we can try again with the younger set.
I hope you are well regardless of the side of the ocean you are on. Bon courage either way.
Chris
How clever of Ron & Pierre to dine this way. Sounds like a great plan. The puff pastry looks so good Lynn. I never think of puff pastry this way but I use them for desserts occasionally.
I will certainly let you know when the book is completed Lynn. it will be awhile yet. Creating and publishing them is so much work. I’m more anxious than anyone to complete it. XOX
How clever of Ron & Pierre to dine this way. Sounds like a great plan. The puff pastry looks so good Lynn. I never think of puff pastry this way but I use them for desserts occasionally.
I will certainly let you know when the book is completed Lynn. it will be awhile yet. Creating and publishing them is so much work. I’m more anxious than anyone to complete it. XOX
How clever of Ron & Pierre to dine this way. Sounds like a great plan. The puff pastry looks so good Lynn. I never think of puff pastry this way but I use them for desserts occasionally.
I will certainly let you know when the book is completed Lynn. it will be awhile yet. Creating and publishing them is so much work. I’m more anxious than anyone to complete it. XOX
Oui c un peu comme Les routiers! Pour la pâte feuilletée on peut faire un genre de quiche avec toutes sortes de légumes caramélisés et de viande cuite avec 3 œufs battus avec un pot de crème fraîche et du fromage et voilà une quiche faite avec des restes. 😋😋
Oui c un peu comme Les routiers! Pour la pâte feuilletée on peut faire un genre de quiche avec toutes sortes de légumes caramélisés et de viande cuite avec 3 œufs battus avec un pot de crème fraîche et du fromage et voilà une quiche faite avec des restes. 😋😋
Oui c un peu comme Les routiers! Pour la pâte feuilletée on peut faire un genre de quiche avec toutes sortes de légumes caramélisés et de viande cuite avec 3 œufs battus avec un pot de crème fraîche et du fromage et voilà une quiche faite avec des restes. 😋😋
Lynn,these tarts are not only gorgeous to look at but also out of this world yummy(especially with such terrific fillings!)Wow!! Lunch tomorrow,bien sur!! MERCI MILLE FOIS!!
You had me wrapped in smiles with the escapades of the ouvriers and their dejeuners.If we have anything similar here in the US,I am not aware of it–truly our loss,but still wonderful for arm chair travel.
Lynn,these tarts are not only gorgeous to look at but also out of this world yummy(especially with such terrific fillings!)Wow!! Lunch tomorrow,bien sur!! MERCI MILLE FOIS!!
You had me wrapped in smiles with the escapades of the ouvriers and their dejeuners.If we have anything similar here in the US,I am not aware of it–truly our loss,but still wonderful for arm chair travel.
Lynn,these tarts are not only gorgeous to look at but also out of this world yummy(especially with such terrific fillings!)Wow!! Lunch tomorrow,bien sur!! MERCI MILLE FOIS!!
You had me wrapped in smiles with the escapades of the ouvriers and their dejeuners.If we have anything similar here in the US,I am not aware of it–truly our loss,but still wonderful for arm chair travel.
Oh, yes, I’ve seen that! Isn’t that funny! But, hey it works for those ouvriers!
Oh, yes, I’ve seen that! Isn’t that funny! But, hey it works for those ouvriers!
Oh, yes, I’ve seen that! Isn’t that funny! But, hey it works for those ouvriers!
Also Lynn, after awhile while working in our house, the servers in St Gengeoux memorized the wines and desserts ( which kind of ice cream) and all coffees they ordered. And , yes, it depended upon what kind of meat they were serving as to whether I would join them(I only eat chicken and fish). They always had a board outside each day written as to their salad, entre plate and if there wears a special dessert (other than ice cream). They were certainly regulars there. I’m sure you also know that by often their bosses gave these ouvriers vouchers to pay for one of those complete meals each day during the week. Oh, those were the days😍
Also Lynn, after awhile while working in our house, the servers in St Gengeoux memorized the wines and desserts ( which kind of ice cream) and all coffees they ordered. And , yes, it depended upon what kind of meat they were serving as to whether I would join them(I only eat chicken and fish). They always had a board outside each day written as to their salad, entre plate and if there wears a special dessert (other than ice cream). They were certainly regulars there. I’m sure you also know that by often their bosses gave these ouvriers vouchers to pay for one of those complete meals each day during the week. Oh, those were the days😍
Also Lynn, after awhile while working in our house, the servers in St Gengeoux memorized the wines and desserts ( which kind of ice cream) and all coffees they ordered. And , yes, it depended upon what kind of meat they were serving as to whether I would join them(I only eat chicken and fish). They always had a board outside each day written as to their salad, entre plate and if there wears a special dessert (other than ice cream). They were certainly regulars there. I’m sure you also know that by often their bosses gave these ouvriers vouchers to pay for one of those complete meals each day during the week. Oh, those were the days😍
Oh, and those wonderful Pate feuilleté are usually used for the ubiquitous tomato tart with French mustard as the base. Yumm! I also used them for lighter pizzas.
Oh, and those wonderful Pate feuilleté are usually used for the ubiquitous tomato tart with French mustard as the base. Yumm! I also used them for lighter pizzas.
Oh, and those wonderful Pate feuilleté are usually used for the ubiquitous tomato tart with French mustard as the base. Yumm! I also used them for lighter pizzas.
Like Chris, I read your blog post about ouvrier dejeuner a few years ago, and I’ve been looking out for the small white trucks ever since. I do long-distance hiking in the countryside and it is not difficult to find a wonderful lunch. I was surprised to find just such a place in Beaune, next to our hotel. It was just after noon, and we were seated in the large room at the only table for two. All of the tables were full of locals: the pompiers in uniform, the construction workers, etc. The big tables were reserved and we soon realized that we had made it in just in time. As you described, the food and wine started to appear. But the best part was when we returned the next day, the restaurateur smiled and said, “your table is ready for your.”
Like Chris, I read your blog post about ouvrier dejeuner a few years ago, and I’ve been looking out for the small white trucks ever since. I do long-distance hiking in the countryside and it is not difficult to find a wonderful lunch. I was surprised to find just such a place in Beaune, next to our hotel. It was just after noon, and we were seated in the large room at the only table for two. All of the tables were full of locals: the pompiers in uniform, the construction workers, etc. The big tables were reserved and we soon realized that we had made it in just in time. As you described, the food and wine started to appear. But the best part was when we returned the next day, the restaurateur smiled and said, “your table is ready for your.”
Like Chris, I read your blog post about ouvrier dejeuner a few years ago, and I’ve been looking out for the small white trucks ever since. I do long-distance hiking in the countryside and it is not difficult to find a wonderful lunch. I was surprised to find just such a place in Beaune, next to our hotel. It was just after noon, and we were seated in the large room at the only table for two. All of the tables were full of locals: the pompiers in uniform, the construction workers, etc. The big tables were reserved and we soon realized that we had made it in just in time. As you described, the food and wine started to appear. But the best part was when we returned the next day, the restaurateur smiled and said, “your table is ready for your.”
I love the idea of topping the puff pastry with veggies and meats. Like a pizza perhaps, but better! I have some puff pastry in the freezer. I’m thinking of trying with roasted cauli and asparagus, topped with pecorino or gruyere.
I love the idea of topping the puff pastry with veggies and meats. Like a pizza perhaps, but better! I have some puff pastry in the freezer. I’m thinking of trying with roasted cauli and asparagus, topped with pecorino or gruyere.
I love the idea of topping the puff pastry with veggies and meats. Like a pizza perhaps, but better! I have some puff pastry in the freezer. I’m thinking of trying with roasted cauli and asparagus, topped with pecorino or gruyere.
A few years back I took my in-laws to a restaurant that turned up right as the dreaded 1:30 cut off was approaching. I knew nothing about the restaurant but I knew the timing was crucial. We entered an empty room and yet the hostess said the place was full. I looked a bit panicked and she gave in and said follow me. We wove through the brooms, the cleaning products and past the bathrooms. Suddenly we emerged into an enormous room packed with men. At least 70 of them. Not a woman to be seen. My little gang was dress like good mid-westerners and boy did we get looks. Lunch was a hoot and the best full course meal with unlimited wine ever –all for 12 euros.
So glad we are back to those types of afternoons out
A few years back I took my in-laws to a restaurant that turned up right as the dreaded 1:30 cut off was approaching. I knew nothing about the restaurant but I knew the timing was crucial. We entered an empty room and yet the hostess said the place was full. I looked a bit panicked and she gave in and said follow me. We wove through the brooms, the cleaning products and past the bathrooms. Suddenly we emerged into an enormous room packed with men. At least 70 of them. Not a woman to be seen. My little gang was dress like good mid-westerners and boy did we get looks. Lunch was a hoot and the best full course meal with unlimited wine ever –all for 12 euros.
So glad we are back to those types of afternoons out
A few years back I took my in-laws to a restaurant that turned up right as the dreaded 1:30 cut off was approaching. I knew nothing about the restaurant but I knew the timing was crucial. We entered an empty room and yet the hostess said the place was full. I looked a bit panicked and she gave in and said follow me. We wove through the brooms, the cleaning products and past the bathrooms. Suddenly we emerged into an enormous room packed with men. At least 70 of them. Not a woman to be seen. My little gang was dress like good mid-westerners and boy did we get looks. Lunch was a hoot and the best full course meal with unlimited wine ever –all for 12 euros.
So glad we are back to those types of afternoons out