I am a total misfit in my immediate family. My family is what you would call sportif, in French. But that's an understatement. My eldest stepdaughter is at the top of the heap, she’s an internationally rated triathlete. Our small group is also into cycling, windsurfing, kiteboarding, sailing, rock climbing, hang gliding–the list goes on. Just this month, for example, my adventurous granddaughter has been sky-diving from a helicopter, bungee jumping, cliff diving, spelunking, and white water rafting. Meanwhile, my idea of a perfect day is a nice stroll, a luxury hotel, and a decadent lunch, ideally followed by a nap.
So when our daughter and granddaughter came to visit this month, they decided they might like to ride their bikes from our house in Beaune down to Marseilles. This, by the way, is about 500 km. So Ron, our younger daughter and I signed up to be the voiture-balai, known in English as the broom car or the sag-wagon. Since these two cyclistes extraordinaires never sagged or needed sweeping up, basically we were luggage schleppers. Amazingly they got up at 6 a.m. and were done by lunchtime every day, so we had plenty of time to sightsee together.
Which gives me an excuse to give you a mini tour of Aix-en-Provence, a two-day stop on our trip. We have visited there a gazillion times, and it’s always a treat.
Aix (pronounced, “X”), is a big American and British destination, ever since it was popularized by Peter Mayle’s first book, A Year in Provence. He loved to sit and people-watch at the bistro Les Deux Garcons. We did too until it went up in flames a couple of years ago, and they are still in the process of rebuilding it. We look forward to seeing its next incarnation.
Aix is famous for having the most beautiful main street in Europe, Le Cours Mirabeau, which has a series of roundabouts with stunning fountains. It’s a lively town because there’s a university there, plus plenty of tourists of course. Aix is the former capital of Provence, and has a long and rich history.
The luxury hotel of my dreams is in Aix, but this being a sporty trip, we stayed at a much more reasonable and practical spot.
We did discover a classy joint which is my favorite new restaurant in Aix, at the Hotel de Caumont. It’s not actually a hotel, it’s a decorative arts museum with rotating art exhibits that you can tour, and it has beautiful formal gardens. You can lunch in the jardin in their gorgeous enclosed courtyard with a divine salad, and pretend that you are one of those elegant French elites who summers in the sunny Luberon. It was here we chose to take our official team photo.
So what does one do in Aix besides eat very well? Here are a few items from my list.
— people-watch at a bistro on Cours Mirabeau with an Aperol spritz in hand.
— get lost in the narrow winding streets, where you can shop in the tantalizing boutiques and gaze at the lovely architecture.
— check out Cézanne's Atelier, and then take the marked pedestrian walk that takes you to his hang-outs.
–there are a number of museums, and there is a market or brocante somewhere every day in Aix.
If you go: if you are feeling flush, book at the five-star Villa Gallici (a Relais and Château) and pamper yourself to the max. This time we stayed at a three-star hotel, L'Hotel de Concorde. Well located and pleasant. We’ve also stayed at the Best Western (quatre étoiles), which is right off the main street.
Favorite READS: if you would like to experience Provence virtually, I recommend A Year in Provence or any of Peter Mayle's other books, and the fun movie, A Good Year. Readers, I'm sure you have more ideas.
I am a fan of the "cozy" or romantic mystery genres–interesting characters, a sense of place, and very little blood (think author Mary Stewart, or Midsommer or Inspector Lewis, on TV). My latest read, The Paris Mystery by Kristy Manning, is just what this book is, and it's an entertaining one, too.
We have some good book recommendations from readers as well. Natalia likes Nina George's The Little Villlage of Booklovers. Paula suggests The Retreat, by Sara Pearse, a mystery; and The Gown, by Jennifer Robson, a historical novel. Merci, keep those ideas coming!
21 thoughts on “Bikes and Brooms in Provence”
You certainly captured the spirit of the fabulous town of Aix, Lynn! Beautifully written and great photos. I can’t believe I haven’t been to the gardens of the Decorative Arts Museum. It looks wonderful. Love your tee shirts!
You certainly captured the spirit of the fabulous town of Aix, Lynn! Beautifully written and great photos. I can’t believe I haven’t been to the gardens of the Decorative Arts Museum. It looks wonderful. Love your tee shirts!
You certainly captured the spirit of the fabulous town of Aix, Lynn! Beautifully written and great photos. I can’t believe I haven’t been to the gardens of the Decorative Arts Museum. It looks wonderful. Love your tee shirts!
Lynn, just before this email posted, I was thinking of you as we were literally driving by Beaune on our way back to Germany. My husband is retiring from the Army after 35 years, so our treat before moving back to the States was the entire month of August in an Airbnb in Aix!
We’ve vacationed there often but usually stay at the “Aquabella Spa and Hotel” for great inner city location and lovely food and wine. (You can get a day pass to the spa and pools if not a hotel guest. The exterior pool is built along the old Roman wall. Gorgeous!)
As we were near the Forum des Cardeurs in the Old Town, here are a few of our favorite spots:
“De l’une à autre” at 12 rue de Cancel and “Le Bistro” at 5 rue Campra for well above average bistro food and quaint interiors/courtyards. For artisanal necessities… “Les Moulins des Artistes” has gorgeous breads, fougasse, pastries, sandwiches, etc. I prefer their croissants to the famous Bechard’s on Cour Mirabeau. Coffee, however, is not their strong suit. But “Brûlerie” on Place Richelme roasts and grinds their own beans (hurray!) As they don’t serve breakfast, many patrons bring their own viennoiseries in the mornings. “Fromagerie Savelli” on rue des Marseillais is the only cheese affineur in town. Enough said. Conveniently across the street is “Madame Wine” with a curated selection of bottles. All of these places are within a five minute walk of the beautiful Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Lynn, just before this email posted, I was thinking of you as we were literally driving by Beaune on our way back to Germany. My husband is retiring from the Army after 35 years, so our treat before moving back to the States was the entire month of August in an Airbnb in Aix!
We’ve vacationed there often but usually stay at the “Aquabella Spa and Hotel” for great inner city location and lovely food and wine. (You can get a day pass to the spa and pools if not a hotel guest. The exterior pool is built along the old Roman wall. Gorgeous!)
As we were near the Forum des Cardeurs in the Old Town, here are a few of our favorite spots:
“De l’une à autre” at 12 rue de Cancel and “Le Bistro” at 5 rue Campra for well above average bistro food and quaint interiors/courtyards. For artisanal necessities… “Les Moulins des Artistes” has gorgeous breads, fougasse, pastries, sandwiches, etc. I prefer their croissants to the famous Bechard’s on Cour Mirabeau. Coffee, however, is not their strong suit. But “Brûlerie” on Place Richelme roasts and grinds their own beans (hurray!) As they don’t serve breakfast, many patrons bring their own viennoiseries in the mornings. “Fromagerie Savelli” on rue des Marseillais is the only cheese affineur in town. Enough said. Conveniently across the street is “Madame Wine” with a curated selection of bottles. All of these places are within a five minute walk of the beautiful Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Lynn, just before this email posted, I was thinking of you as we were literally driving by Beaune on our way back to Germany. My husband is retiring from the Army after 35 years, so our treat before moving back to the States was the entire month of August in an Airbnb in Aix!
We’ve vacationed there often but usually stay at the “Aquabella Spa and Hotel” for great inner city location and lovely food and wine. (You can get a day pass to the spa and pools if not a hotel guest. The exterior pool is built along the old Roman wall. Gorgeous!)
As we were near the Forum des Cardeurs in the Old Town, here are a few of our favorite spots:
“De l’une à autre” at 12 rue de Cancel and “Le Bistro” at 5 rue Campra for well above average bistro food and quaint interiors/courtyards. For artisanal necessities… “Les Moulins des Artistes” has gorgeous breads, fougasse, pastries, sandwiches, etc. I prefer their croissants to the famous Bechard’s on Cour Mirabeau. Coffee, however, is not their strong suit. But “Brûlerie” on Place Richelme roasts and grinds their own beans (hurray!) As they don’t serve breakfast, many patrons bring their own viennoiseries in the mornings. “Fromagerie Savelli” on rue des Marseillais is the only cheese affineur in town. Enough said. Conveniently across the street is “Madame Wine” with a curated selection of bottles. All of these places are within a five minute walk of the beautiful Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Cher Lynn et Ron, thank you for recalling many wonderful memories of our trips to Aix. We too rate it as one of the best stops in Provence.
Makes our hearts happy to see you enjoying la bonne vie with your beautiful family.
We have been at home in GA since January. Maureen broke a leg and was non-weight bearing for 8weeks. Has been in PT 3/week working to regain strength and balance. No Provençal times for us this year.
Hurricane Idelia managed a “direct hit” on our NC home as a tropical storm as it moved off shore. Lots of debris and water intrusion through our bedroom windows. No major issues.
KEEP HAVING FUN.
Much love,
Maureen and Lee
Cher Lynn et Ron, thank you for recalling many wonderful memories of our trips to Aix. We too rate it as one of the best stops in Provence.
Makes our hearts happy to see you enjoying la bonne vie with your beautiful family.
We have been at home in GA since January. Maureen broke a leg and was non-weight bearing for 8weeks. Has been in PT 3/week working to regain strength and balance. No Provençal times for us this year.
Hurricane Idelia managed a “direct hit” on our NC home as a tropical storm as it moved off shore. Lots of debris and water intrusion through our bedroom windows. No major issues.
KEEP HAVING FUN.
Much love,
Maureen and Lee
Cher Lynn et Ron, thank you for recalling many wonderful memories of our trips to Aix. We too rate it as one of the best stops in Provence.
Makes our hearts happy to see you enjoying la bonne vie with your beautiful family.
We have been at home in GA since January. Maureen broke a leg and was non-weight bearing for 8weeks. Has been in PT 3/week working to regain strength and balance. No Provençal times for us this year.
Hurricane Idelia managed a “direct hit” on our NC home as a tropical storm as it moved off shore. Lots of debris and water intrusion through our bedroom windows. No major issues.
KEEP HAVING FUN.
Much love,
Maureen and Lee
I always love reading ypur posts! And your mention today of Mary Stewart-I’m such a fan!
I’ll pick up The Paris Mystery since my pile of books, just like summer, is dwindling.
I always love reading ypur posts! And your mention today of Mary Stewart-I’m such a fan!
I’ll pick up The Paris Mystery since my pile of books, just like summer, is dwindling.
I always love reading ypur posts! And your mention today of Mary Stewart-I’m such a fan!
I’ll pick up The Paris Mystery since my pile of books, just like summer, is dwindling.
Lynn, you have such a beautiful family!Thank you for sharing them with us!I am more than quite impressed with both that amazing bike ride
(the cyclists extraordinaire is an understatement!) and! of course(of course!) the dear souls riding shotgun in the voiture balai! Wow to it all!!!
I especially enjoyed your wonderful suggestions and sightseeing tips for Aix. We loved it there in younger days and thanks to you, now have had a wonderful arm chair refresher course. Thank you!
I totally agree with you about Peter Mayle.Anything he writes is marvelous. A Good Year is one of my all time favorite films(actually,by now I almost have the dialogue memorized!!)I am going to skip what reading material I was going to suggest this time in favor of making a beeline to reread A Year In Provence and once again become immersed in its magic.
Lynn, you have such a beautiful family!Thank you for sharing them with us!I am more than quite impressed with both that amazing bike ride
(the cyclists extraordinaire is an understatement!) and! of course(of course!) the dear souls riding shotgun in the voiture balai! Wow to it all!!!
I especially enjoyed your wonderful suggestions and sightseeing tips for Aix. We loved it there in younger days and thanks to you, now have had a wonderful arm chair refresher course. Thank you!
I totally agree with you about Peter Mayle.Anything he writes is marvelous. A Good Year is one of my all time favorite films(actually,by now I almost have the dialogue memorized!!)I am going to skip what reading material I was going to suggest this time in favor of making a beeline to reread A Year In Provence and once again become immersed in its magic.
Lynn, you have such a beautiful family!Thank you for sharing them with us!I am more than quite impressed with both that amazing bike ride
(the cyclists extraordinaire is an understatement!) and! of course(of course!) the dear souls riding shotgun in the voiture balai! Wow to it all!!!
I especially enjoyed your wonderful suggestions and sightseeing tips for Aix. We loved it there in younger days and thanks to you, now have had a wonderful arm chair refresher course. Thank you!
I totally agree with you about Peter Mayle.Anything he writes is marvelous. A Good Year is one of my all time favorite films(actually,by now I almost have the dialogue memorized!!)I am going to skip what reading material I was going to suggest this time in favor of making a beeline to reread A Year In Provence and once again become immersed in its magic.
What a lovely overview of Aix, one of my favorite places in France! I’m a huge MFK Fisher fan, and her book Two Towns in Provence, among others, gives one a sense of being right there in timeless Aix. And thanks for the recommendation of The Paris Mystery, which will be next on my reading list.
What a lovely overview of Aix, one of my favorite places in France! I’m a huge MFK Fisher fan, and her book Two Towns in Provence, among others, gives one a sense of being right there in timeless Aix. And thanks for the recommendation of The Paris Mystery, which will be next on my reading list.
What a lovely overview of Aix, one of my favorite places in France! I’m a huge MFK Fisher fan, and her book Two Towns in Provence, among others, gives one a sense of being right there in timeless Aix. And thanks for the recommendation of The Paris Mystery, which will be next on my reading list.
Thank you for the mini-tour of Aix, it looks very beautiful and sounds like a much appreciated destination from all of the suggestions. Perhaps now that my better half (actually, make that 3/4’s) retires 9/15/23 we will make it back to lovely France. Your impressively athletic clan are such good ambassadors.
Thank you for the mini-tour of Aix, it looks very beautiful and sounds like a much appreciated destination from all of the suggestions. Perhaps now that my better half (actually, make that 3/4’s) retires 9/15/23 we will make it back to lovely France. Your impressively athletic clan are such good ambassadors.
Thank you for the mini-tour of Aix, it looks very beautiful and sounds like a much appreciated destination from all of the suggestions. Perhaps now that my better half (actually, make that 3/4’s) retires 9/15/23 we will make it back to lovely France. Your impressively athletic clan are such good ambassadors.